Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona
Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Wednesday 4 July 2018

Madeira in three ways

Madeira cake, Madeira wine and anticipation of Madeira the island were all on my mind as the plane made it's swift landing at Funchal Airport.  I was there for the first time to enjoy a yoga holiday and fulfil the experience of seeing some of the island, which had long been on my wish list of places to visit.

First discovered around 600 years ago by Portuguese explorers, Madeira lies off the north west coast of Africa . The economy originally grew based on the cultivation of sugar cane and the slave trade, becoming the world's greatest producer of sugar at the end of the 15th century.  Following a virus which decimated the sugar cane industry, this was followed by wine as the most important product in the 17th and 18th centuries.  Madeira gained political autonomy from Portugal in 1976.

My destination was the small, traditional village of Ponta do Sol, around 30 minutes' drive from the airport and regarded as having the best climate in Madeira.  The Estalagem Ponto do Sol is a boutique hotel with 54-rooms, all with expansive views of the Atlantic Ocean or hotel gardens.  A lift takes guests from the road level to the hotel located on the top of a cliff.



Formed as a result of volcanic activity, Madeira does not have sandy beaches, but the dark rocky coastline makes for dramatic scenery. Particularly wonderful when relaxing by a lovely infinity swimming pool...



As well as sailing, there are various dolphin and whale watching trips available to make the most of the island's location.

Whilst green, with countless terraces of banana trees, Madeira's interior is very rugged providing many challenging walks and the chance to follow the ancient levada or irrigation channels originally constructed to distribute water to the more arid areas.  There are lots of steep slopes and steps seemingly everywhere, so this really is an island ideally suited to activity holidays.  Definitely best for the fit and adventurous traveller.  




There are rewards along the way with natural wonders and incredible views.




Even though I was glad to experience the levadas, daily yoga sessions had tempted me to book the trip initially.  Our group of 10 had the use of a lovely airy and private yoga studio at the hotel.

Not for anyone inclined to vertigo, this is the view from the hotel down to the beach...


It was definitely worth the short walk down to enjoy one of the beach cafes where I'd been recommended to try the salt cod croquettes.  That was my favourite lunch of the whole trip and with a beautifully chilled glass of house white wine, the perfect indulgence.




On more level footing a look around the capital, Funchal, is definitely a must including a visit to the central market where some of Madeira's famous blooms may be seen (as well as at the renowned Botanical Gardens, reached by a cable car ride).



As for Madeira cake, this was not as we know it in England - where Madeira cake, or pound cake as it would be known in the U.S.A, is a vanilla plain cake.  In Madeira the name is 'Bolo de Mel' or honey cake, made from molasses and delicious spices, also curiously made with no eggs which ensures longer storage. That is if it lasts that long as it is certainly very moreish.  The tradition is to never cut the Bolo de Mel with a knife, just to tear off a portion instead (as metal reacts with the molasses to give an odd taste).  Whether served with a glass of Madeira or cup of tea, it is a wonderful flavour of the island.

Perhaps one aspect of a holiday to Madeira which no one really mentions is the fact the island is often buffeted by Atlantic winds, which means the airport is sometimes subject to closure and flight delays. Also the short runway is not ideal for any passengers of a nervous disposition.  Even though the island is sub-tropical, warm weather is not guaranteed.  All that aside I'm glad I made the trip and thankfully my flight home was perfectly on time.




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