There's something wonderfully uplifting in the busy pre-Christmas rush and that's the chance to take a long weekend trip and enjoy the delights of a traditional Christmas market. For me this usually means an annual trip to Germany. I love the festive atmosphere; delicious seasonal delights to eat and drink; and the chance to choose some new tree decorations. I've found though that some of the more popular German markets have become victim of their own success and chronic over-crowding at the main markets in Berlin last year inspired a re-think for 2015. So this year for a complete change my destination was Sweden and the city of Gothenburg. Gale force winds, followed by heavy rain and grey skies were not the cold crisp days with light snow I'd hoped for, but Gothenburg didn't disappoint and provided some gems to discover.
My two favourite Christmas markets were both relatively small and in historical areas of the city - the Haga neighbourhood with it's traditional architecture is home to some quaint old cafes, ideal for the Swedish 'fika' or coffee break. Cafe Kringlan is on the main street of Haga Nygata and was like stepping back in time.
A popular choice from the tempting counter display and perfect with a coffee or hot chocolate, is the cinnamon bun with it's snowy dusting of sugar crystals.
With lots of tempting homemade treats on offer, the 'S' shaped saffron buns were a simple and light alternative with a distinctive saffron taste. Both ideal options for a sustaining morning break.
Kronhuset Christmas Market was larger than the Haga one (which was only really a few stalls on one street, but with some interesting small shops to browse along the way). Incorporating one of the oldest buildings in Gothenburg built in the 1650's, Kronhuset had a good range of interesting crafts, along with an emporium packed with traditional sweets and chocolate. The Swedes certainly seem to adore their sweet treats.
My weekend in Gothenburg also included a visit to Liseberg, the largest amusement park in Sweden. Home to a variety of rides, an ice rink and different attractions, it is particularly ideal for children. Then as an escape from the bad weather, the Nordstan shopping mall is vast and undercover, so was an ideal option for some retail therapy. It was also my first experience of a 'Canto' group of singers, rather like a flash mob of dancers, but folk who looked as if they were just out shopping but all came together in seemingly spontaneous and delightful Christmas song.
For me though, the overall highlight of Gothenburg was a fabulous lunch at Sjomagasinet. This one-star Michelin restaurant is located on the waterfront and housed in an old warehouse dating back to 1775, originally used by the East India Company. Here Owner Ulf Wagner has created a delightful wooden-beamed restaurant offering superb classic and innovative Swedish cooking based on his belief that ..."a meal has three dimensions - food, beverages and spiritual fulfillment with an ambiance that encompasses the total experience". With award-winning Head Chef Gustav Tragardh and a great in-house team, this is truly a destination restaurant worth the return flight to Gothenburg alone.
During December the traditional Christmas Buffet is an impressive selection of dishes, with a particular focus on seafood - I'm now a total fan of herrings (which previously I never thought I liked) served with miniature dill potatoes and accompaniments such as beetroot salad; there was a delectable array of main courses including succulent frikadeller (Swedish meatballs, although I particularly liked the cod version) with side dishes including the iconic Jansonn's Temptation (a rich and creamy potato gratin made with onions and anchovies); along with a whole buffet dedicated to desserts. Who could resist Gingerbread Tiramisu; mini Lingonberry cakes; a chocolate covered marzipan confection with glace fruits; macaroons and more besides. The Swedish concept of 'largom' or 'just enough' tends to go out of the window with such an extensive feast.
Christmas markets aside, Sjomagasinet is my number one recommendation for a visit to Gothenburg. Be sure to try the house Aquavit called Nubbe, which is the perfect accompaniment to the seafood extravaganza. Thankfully Sjomagasinet is a year-round gourmet treat and would be particularly amazing in the Summer with the option to dine outside (although without the festive buffet).
As the Swedes would say: God Jul, or Happy Christmas!
