Festive Berlin

With the joy of seasonal treats from delicious almond stollen cake and ginger spiked Lebkuchen biscuits to the warming, spicy taste of hot Gluehwein punch, there's nothing like a trip to Germany in mid-December for a boost of festive spirit and to enjoy the wonderful Christmas markets.  Having wanted to visit Berlin for years I finally made it and have just returned from a few days there, 25 years after the fall of the Wall and German reunification.  Travelling with a dear friend who had been to the city before, we explored key sights and walked miles, with the view of off-setting the calorific Gluehwein and baking intake. 


The grey skies and constant rain were far from the cold crisp weather with light snow I was hoping for, but didn't stop us seeing the iconic Brandenburg Gate that Napoleon rode through in 1806 after his army defeated Prussia; the grand avenue of Unter den Linden currently hidden under construction panels for the new U-Bahn line; graffiti clad remnants of the Wall and the place I found so moving - the imposing Holocaust memorial 'to the killed Jews of Europe'.  Designed by American architect Peter Eisenman and completed in 2005 this large outdoor plot of dark grey plain rectangular plinths, like huge stone coffins, is set in rows on undulating ground.  The rain streaming down the flat surfaces looked like tears and I found it one of the saddest and most depressing places I have ever been.  Symbolising the six million Jews and others murdered by the Nazis in their concentration camps between 1933 and 1945, the effect is hugely impactful. 

Contemporary Berlin is a vast and sprawling city full of modern architecture and creative energy. As an antidote from the heavy reality of past history combined with the sombre weather, my saving grace was the colour and life of the Christmas markets.  Alexanderplatz was authentic and charming with a central ice skating rink and pony rides for small children in a wooden stable; along with a good selection of stalls and places for snacks; the renowned Gendarmenmarkt was very smart and attractive but so crowded with visitors at 6pm on Friday evening you could hardly move; the Schloss Chartlottenburg market was much smaller than anticipated and overly full of tourists so after a quick circuit we left in preference for the fabulous department store KaDeWe.  Heading straight to the top floor Winter Garden for a restorative 'Kaffee und Kuchen' coffee and cake we had ringside seats for viewing the transition of the afternoon dusk through the windows turning to dark like a dimmer switch onto the night sky, all within the space of half an hour.  Our side trip by local train to Potsdam the following day was a welcome contrast to discover the less busy Christmas market there.  Train travel in Berlin was the best bargain around costing only Eur7.20 for a three-zone day pass, covering not just the city centre but the 45 minute journey out to Potsdam too.


Traditional cooking in Germany is hard to beat for hearty Winter fare and Berlin has plenty of options.  My favourite restaurant was Café Einstein for their acclaimed Weiner Schnitzel and the most amazing homemade strudels.  I'd never had Topfenstrudel before, with rum soaked poached red fruit under a light vanilla layer encased in a feathery chocolate pastry.  Definitely one to seek out again and available all year round, not just for Christmas. Berlin has certainly been an experience of highs and lows, but in all a fascinating city with so much more to offer than a few days are able to do justice to.

A Taste of America

Since enjoying favourite American television programmes as a child from 'Bewitched'; to 'I Dream of Jeanie' and the New York based sitcom 'Rhoda' to name only three, I have long been influenced by the houses and lifestyles portrayed.  They always seemed more exciting than suburban London.  Combined with a lifelong interest in American food, cooking and subsequently wine, my collection of American cookbooks has expanded over the years from buying the 'Toll House Heritage Cookbook' on my first visit to Florida as a teenager so I could learn how to bake the best chocolate chip cookies; through the Silver Palate Cookbook and Martha Stewarts 'Art of Entertaining' treasured since my first visit to New York; plus the delights of Lee Bailey; and MFK Fisher amongst others; also for the past 15 years Ina Garten the wonderful 'Barefoot Contessa'.


Consequently I'm not sure why it took me so long to plan a trip to East Hampton, the area Ina champions, but I've just been following in her footsteps and after a few days in mid-Manhattan New York I took the Long Island Rail Road to explore.  A hundred miles out of the city and a world away, this favoured Summer playground of the rich and famous is a lovely place to visit.  In fact East Hampton was voted America's most beautiful village in a National Geographic poll.  (It would probably win the award for the most expensive place to stay too). 


The wide roads and beautiful beachfront are lined with many large multi-million dollar properties and the picturesque village is carefully preserved, with no high rise buildings, neon or advertising billboards.  Whilst there I tried some of Ina's favourite places including Nick & Toni's restaurant and her local 1770 House where I sat at the Tavern bar downstairs and ordered the famous meatloaf.  I can see why Ina's a regular there.   Her new book 'Make It Ahead' is coming out at the end of October, so I was too soon for the book launch tour, but at least I have now sampled Ina's slice of America and it was delicious.

Delights of the New Forest

Created by King William the Conqueror in 1079, the New Forest National Park in the south of England is a favourite area of mine.  Having enjoyed countless holidays there since childhood this wonderful ancient natural area has a fabulous energy which I always find invigorating.  Feeling in need of a late Summer boost it was the perfect place to enjoy a couple of days relaxing.  Having decided to go at very short notice finding good accommodation was tricky, but fortunately I was able to stay at the boutique Hotel Terra Vina in Netley Marsh.  I first read about this gem years ago but had never checked in, so was really glad they had last minute availability.  The owners are Gerard Basset OBE and his wife Nina, ably assisted by a super team.  Gerard has been involved in the world of wine for over 25 years, winning the accolade of 'Best Sommelier in the World' in 2010 and last year in 2013 was decreed 'Decanter Man of the Year'.  Consequently you know that whatever you choose from the wine list will be excellent.


Renowned for its Californian style restaurant and amazing wines, Terra Vina's reputation as a fabulous place to eat certainly lived up to expectations.  The dinner menu the evening I was there had lots of tempting choices.  Although rather unconventional I couldn't resist trying the macaroni cheese with parmesan and rosemary.  This was meant to be a side order, but as it didn't go with my preferred choice of main course I was very happy to be able to have the pasta dish as a starter instead.  It was superb and I'd go back just for that dish alone.  As a main course I had delicious hake served with cockles and razor clams, peas and broad beans, all beautifully cooked and looked like a work of art on the plate.  The glass of Gruener Veltliner the Sommelier recommended to accompany the dish was the perfect combination.  I couldn't manage dessert, so finished with a simple camomile tea and the promise of returning to do the menu more justice.


Staying overnight at Hotel Terra Vina was ideal and gave me the chance to enjoy a swim in the heated pool.  At a time when the New Forest was overly busy with traffic, full of people making the most of the end of the school holidays and the last of the Summer sun, the oasis of calm at Hotel Terra Vina was very welcome.  With just 11 bedrooms and the wonders of the New Forest on the doorstep I look forward to returning.

British Pullman - Tom Kerridge's Dinner, Saturday 12th July 2014

Finding my own £10 note folded inside a whole kiwi fruit was not something I'd expected during the excellent dinner on board the British Pullman on Saturday, but the whole evening provided surprise and delight.  One talented magician aside, I was fortunate to be a guest on board for a gourmet evening showcasing Tom Kerridge, the two-star Michelin chef of Hand & Flowers fame.  Following a recent re-branding from Orient-Express to Belmond, the British Pullman is part of a global collection of 45 iconic hotels, trains and river cruises.  Described on their website as "The ultimate travel curator and connoisseur, Belmond creates exceptional experiences worldwide".  They certainly lived up to the expectation on a sultry evening heading out of Victoria station for a 170-mile round trip passing through beautiful English countryside, glimpsing the sea and returning to the spectacle of the London skyline at night.

The black-tie evening began with delicious Laurent-Perrier champagne on the station before taking our seats in the elegant surroundings of Audrey carriage, resplendent with intricate marquetry panels, fine linens and crystal.  English Cucumber Gazpacho, Creme Fraiche and Vodka was the first course in a dainty cup garnished with borage flowers, but packing a punch with the heat of green chilli.  This was served with Jake's Orchard Sparkling Cider and Nettles, Hush Heath Esate, Kent, England - certainly the best cider I've ever tasted:

The fish course was Chilled Cornish Mackerel Escabeche accompanied by a 2011 Morgon Domaine Jean Descombe Beaujolais, France: 

Then we had Braised new season Lamb Shank, Pea and Mint Ragu with Pickled Girolles and Salsa Verdi served with a 2008 Bandol Domaine de la Begude, Provence, wonderfully rich flavours:

A selection of British Isle cheeses came next featuring Beenleigh Blue, Wealdwad Goats, Somerset Brie and my favourite Gubbeens - what a great name, served with Walnut and Raisin Bread and a velvety 20 year old Tawny Port Ferreira Duque de Braganza Portugal.  

Serenaded by a light jazz duo of guitar and saxaphone dessert arrived. - A Summer fruit fool served with innovative Pink peppercorn shortbread which worked really well and accompanied by a light, gently sparkling 2013 Moscato d'Asti, Prunotto, Piedmont, Italy. 

All with incredible balance on a swiftly moving train the service was excellent throughout.  The delightful chef Tom Kerridge came around at the end of the meal and having the chance to talk to him was such a bonus.  His ethos of cultivating a great team spirit and family feel at his restaurant really shone through the experience he created on board The British Pullman.  I am very happy to have a copy of his book as a memento of a very special evening, which I'm glad to see includes the recipe for the pink peppercorn shortbread along with lots of others I'm keen to try too.  With a nod to Tom's West Country roots the Double Gloucester cheese scones with Old Spot bacon and sage butter sound wonderful as does the deep fried 'popcorn' cockles with chilli vinegar and also the Cherry Bakewell tart using puff pastry.

Whether for a birthday, anniversary or in celebration of life, Belmond certainly knows how to pull out all the stops.  An inspiring experience I very highly recommend.

Peruvian Adventure

Machu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu

Dodging the fans waiting outside the Miraflores Hotel I stayed at in Lima, they were there to see Paul McCartney but I was in Peru to fulfil a childhood dream of going to Machu Picchu, the 'lost city of the Incas'. Arriving in Lima via Madrid (there are no direct flights from the UK) was a good place to start and a Pisco Sour seemed the order of the day. This national drink is totally delicious but the alcohol content combined with the altitude packs a punch.  The first and best one I tried, at the trendy boutique Hotel B in Barranco, soon explained why there was so much laughter and loud voices at the bar - even my writing was slurring as I jotted in my journal to remind myself that I'd ordered grilled garlic prawns, Sudado (fish of the day) in a ginger and herb broth, and for dessert lucma ice cream made from a fruit that looks like yellow avocado. 

Lima is a culinary hotspot and although I wasn't able to secure a table at the famed Gaston y Astrid restaurant, I suspect the 32 course tasting menu would have been quite a marathon.  The setting is charming though, in a 1920's style property in the San Isidro area which was originally farmland before Lima morphed into a huge international city.  Home to an impressive Cathedral; San Francisco Monastery; the first library to have opened in the Americas; and location of the first university founded in the mid-1500's; plus a well worthwhile trip to Mari Solari's textiles and artefacts gallery, a couple of days in Lima was ideal before I set off on more strenuous adventures. 

A short flight took me to Cusco 3,330 meters (10,900ft) above sea level, where my gracious and knowledgeable guide, Luis, met me at the airport.  En route to the fabulous Rio Sagrado Hotel we stopped in Pisac to explore the market.  The Sacred Valley is stunning with fertile soil producing two crops per year, wonderfully soft air and a beautiful energy, I knew I was in a special place.  The Incas were incredibly accomplished, worshipping the earth, sky, sun, moon and honouring Pacha Mama, or 'Mother Earth' in all aspects of their life.  Even today the Peruvian equivalent to toasting 'Cheers' is 'Pacha Mama' accompanied by dipping your finger into your drink then flicking onto the ground and in doing so acknowledging and thanking the cycle of nature.

I'd missed Richard Gere who had previously stayed at the Rio Sagrado, but could understand why he enjoyed being there so much.  With a verdant setting by the swiftly flowing river and hummingbirds flying around the foliage, it felt like paradise on earth.  I resisted sampling 'cuy' or guinea pig in favour of trying the Panquitas traditional creamy corn and Parea cheese seared and served with huancaina sauce served with a 'KM zero' salad.  At such high altitude it was essential to rest and pace things.  Luis showed me around Ollantaytambo - site of one of the great Inca fortresses and also Chinchero, an Andean village with a heritage of weaving, but the highlight of my trip was to reach Machu Picchu.  Opting for the comfortable Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes and then obligatory bus transfer along the switchback roads to Machu Picchu ('Old Mountain' in the Quechua language of the Incas) I had arrived.  The indifferent weather of the past few days had transformed into blue skies and sun.  

No one exactly knows the true origins why the Incas built, occupied and abandoned Machu Picchu in the mid -16th century, but it was a unique place and held a very important role in Inca history.  Myths abound and Hiram Bingham, the Yale graduate who re-discovered the site in 1911, was aware of..." the spiritual purpose of this place...the healing and peace which is the signature of Machu Picchu." I was fortunate to stay at Sanctuary Lodge adjacent to the main entrance and with an early start experienced sunrise.  Cloud and mist initially shrouded the site but dispersed as brightness shone through and the sun enveloped Machu Picchu in a re-energising new day's light.  Truly a 'wow' moment, the experience was a-m-a-z-i-n-g.  Later on I also climbed Huayana Picchu - a really strenuous additional 1200 feet above Machu Picchu which was literally breath-taking but gave even more incredible views.

For my return journey to Cusco I took the smart Orient-Express train for a spirited evening of music and dinner and then checked in to the tranquil Palacio Nazarenas - originally a convent built on the site where two Inca ceremonial routes met. During my few days in Cusco I explored the vibrant central market, looked around the Cathedral, saw the Sacsayhuaman Inca ruins and sampled ceviche - the marinated raw fish national dish of Peru, at the acclaimed El Tupay restaurant of the neighbouring Monasterio hotel.

The last stage of my journey involved a flight to Juliaca for the transfer to Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.  Hotel Titilaca was the best base for trips to see the famed Uros floating islands and Tequile Island where the men knit and the women weave.  Such high altitudes are challenging and even drinking a couple of cups of coca tea every morning did not completely avoid the inevitable sinus pressure.  A small inconvenience though for the experience of being in such an incredible part of the world.  There is so much more to see of Peru from Colca Canyon home of the condors, to delving into the Amazon rainforest, or flying over the Nazca lines.  It's always good to have reasons to return...