Festive Berlin

With the joy of seasonal treats from delicious almond stollen cake and ginger spiked Lebkuchen biscuits to the warming, spicy taste of hot Gluehwein punch, there's nothing like a trip to Germany in mid-December for a boost of festive spirit and to enjoy the wonderful Christmas markets.  Having wanted to visit Berlin for years I finally made it and have just returned from a few days there, 25 years after the fall of the Wall and German reunification.  Travelling with a dear friend who had been to the city before, we explored key sights and walked miles, with the view of off-setting the calorific Gluehwein and baking intake. 


The grey skies and constant rain were far from the cold crisp weather with light snow I was hoping for, but didn't stop us seeing the iconic Brandenburg Gate that Napoleon rode through in 1806 after his army defeated Prussia; the grand avenue of Unter den Linden currently hidden under construction panels for the new U-Bahn line; graffiti clad remnants of the Wall and the place I found so moving - the imposing Holocaust memorial 'to the killed Jews of Europe'.  Designed by American architect Peter Eisenman and completed in 2005 this large outdoor plot of dark grey plain rectangular plinths, like huge stone coffins, is set in rows on undulating ground.  The rain streaming down the flat surfaces looked like tears and I found it one of the saddest and most depressing places I have ever been.  Symbolising the six million Jews and others murdered by the Nazis in their concentration camps between 1933 and 1945, the effect is hugely impactful. 

Contemporary Berlin is a vast and sprawling city full of modern architecture and creative energy. As an antidote from the heavy reality of past history combined with the sombre weather, my saving grace was the colour and life of the Christmas markets.  Alexanderplatz was authentic and charming with a central ice skating rink and pony rides for small children in a wooden stable; along with a good selection of stalls and places for snacks; the renowned Gendarmenmarkt was very smart and attractive but so crowded with visitors at 6pm on Friday evening you could hardly move; the Schloss Chartlottenburg market was much smaller than anticipated and overly full of tourists so after a quick circuit we left in preference for the fabulous department store KaDeWe.  Heading straight to the top floor Winter Garden for a restorative 'Kaffee und Kuchen' coffee and cake we had ringside seats for viewing the transition of the afternoon dusk through the windows turning to dark like a dimmer switch onto the night sky, all within the space of half an hour.  Our side trip by local train to Potsdam the following day was a welcome contrast to discover the less busy Christmas market there.  Train travel in Berlin was the best bargain around costing only Eur7.20 for a three-zone day pass, covering not just the city centre but the 45 minute journey out to Potsdam too.


Traditional cooking in Germany is hard to beat for hearty Winter fare and Berlin has plenty of options.  My favourite restaurant was Café Einstein for their acclaimed Weiner Schnitzel and the most amazing homemade strudels.  I'd never had Topfenstrudel before, with rum soaked poached red fruit under a light vanilla layer encased in a feathery chocolate pastry.  Definitely one to seek out again and available all year round, not just for Christmas. Berlin has certainly been an experience of highs and lows, but in all a fascinating city with so much more to offer than a few days are able to do justice to.