Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona
Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Sunday 17 March 2013

Out of Africa




'Mind the Gap' is an announcement I most associate with taking the tube in London, but had a whole new meaning on the trip I've just completed to Zambia and Botswana.  Here in the depths of the African bush, 'mind the gap' was a warning to take care stepping onto whatever river craft was providing your method of transport and not to fall in to the mighty Zambesi, home to hippos and crocodiles.  Now I shall smile every time I'm on the London underground comparing this totally urban experience to the complete opposite of being in the African bush.

2013 marks the bicentenary of Dr David Lingstone's birth and although the now famous Victoria Falls were not brought to the wider world's attention until this Scottish missionary, doctor and explorer discovered them, they were infact well known to the indiginous tribes of the area for a long time prior.  Named after Queen Victoria the falls were originally called Mosi-oa Tunya or 'the Smoke that Thunders' by the Kololo tribe in the 1800's to describe the massive volume of falling water creating huge spray. One of the wonders of the world, visiting Victoria Falls when the water is high means being totally drenched and pounded with water spray so strong it's like having intense power hoses aimed at you from every direction.  The plastic ponchos optimistically handed out in advance are no more effective than wearing a paper coat would be.  It's hilarious. The water assaults you from every direction with such a force you can understand why the majority of visitors take their shoes off to walk through the torrents rather than end up totally saturated.

I was very fortunate to be part of a small group on a special trip to experience the best of the region, starting with the joy of travelling Virgin Upper Class from Heathrow to Johannesburg with the wonderful flat bed service, connecting with an onward flight to Livingstone airport neighbouring the falls and staying at the Royal Livingstone resort.  There's something deeply decadent about enjoying creature comforts in total luxury when located in the African bush.  Definitely my favourite way to travel.  We kayaked on the Zambesi; visited a local school; watched zebra from close proximity; and then crossed the border into Botswana for a day's incredible game drive to Chobe National Park with the most magical site of herds of elephant; before transferring to the wonderful Royal Chundu Zambesi River Lodge.  I tried fishing for the first time and enjoyed visiting a neighbouring village, interspersed with the obligatory sundowner gin and tonic and bird watching the most colourful and exotic feathered friends I have ever seen.  Somehow being in Africa expands your senses and a few days of such inspiring nature were a wonderful boost before returning to the snow and grey skies of England.  Birds have the right idea, I need to migrate every Winter myself and return to the UK in late Spring.