Best of Bergen

Known as Europe's rainiest city, Bergen wouldn't appeal on it's weather record alone, but inspired by one of Paul Hollywood's City Bakes television programmes and with the chance to catch up with a dear friend over a long weekend, I went to discover the delights of Bergen for myself.  Even though the Summer season officially finished at the end of September, I was so lucky to have blue skies and sunshine for most of my stay recently in October.  Great weather was an unexpected bonus and made such a difference with sightseeing.

Just under two hours' flying time from London, Bergen is Norway's second city after Oslo and has many accolades - European City of Culture, World Heritage City and UNESCO City of Gastronomy.  The photo above shows the old town, representative of how Bergen would have looked at the end of the 1600's (there was a major fire in 1702), complete with authentic wooden alleyways where originally trade was focused on the stockfish industry.  This preserved cod from Northern Norway accounted for 80% of all exports, making Bergen a rich city as well as home to the Hanseatic League, a German trading company which operated in the North and Baltic sea regions for several centuries.

The red-timbered Bryggen Tracteursted is a historical restaurant serving traditional ingredients cooked with a contemporary twist and well worth a visit to try the specialty Prinsefisk or 'Prince Fish' steamed cod filet on asparagus, garnished with lobster, served with a white wine sauce and new potatoes.

Another favourite restaurant of mine was Lysverket located in a 1930's building housing an art museum.  Michelin Guide recommended chef Chris Hatufts serves a delicious modern take on fish soup, although I had wonderful chicken salad featuring roasted carrots and lots of fresh dill. The perfect lunch...

Bergen is also famed as being the gateway to the Fjords of Norway.  A half day cruise, complete with classical music by Grieg playing at scenic highlights was very atmospheric.  Bergen was home to the composer Edvard Grieg and his music truly reflects the landscape he loved. 

With such good weather a trip on the funicular railway 'Floibanen' was a must too, enjoying fabulous views from the top, at 320m above sea level:

Then a leisurely hour's walk back down through fern filled forest:

Followed by a slice of excellent carrot cake, lightly spiced with cinnamon and so freshly baked it was still warm, plus a restorative cup of coffee:

The neighbourhood view from our outdoor table was charming too:

A two-night stay and three full days was plenty long enough to fit in everything we wanted to do and as a city break Bergen really was a delight.  Everywhere is within easy walking distance and impressively everyone speaks English.  As a final note I must just mention a not-to-be-missed coffee shop, Godt Brot, where they bake a daily selection of boller, or seed bun.  There are 12 varieties in total, all with cardamon, using all organic ingredients and the dough is made by hand.  Definitely worth seeking out if you find yourself in Bergen (and they serve good coffee too)...

Taking the water in Bath

One of the loveliest cities in Europe, Bath in south west England is a UNESCO world heritage site.  Arriving by train for my first visit in over 10 years, I was really happy to rediscover the many delights of this fabulous place.  My first stop was for a delicious Bath bun and a coffee at the renowned Sally Lunn's, said to be the oldest house in Bath dating back to the 1680's.  

The traditional Bath bun is very big, so half a toasted bun is the serving size and I chose the cinnamon butter version, a perfect energy boost before sightseeing. There's a small museum in the basement, recreating the old bakery, complete with model baker:

Sally Lunn's is in the centre of Bath, just around the corner from Bath Abbey.  There has been a religious building on the site of the Abbey since Saxon times, evolving with the founding of a Benedictine monastery in the 8th Century AD, with the present building dating from 1499, making it the last great Gothic church in England.

Just steps away from the Abbey you'll find the Roman Baths.  The promotional leaflet sets the scene perfectly..."Walk in the footsteps of the Romans as you explore one of the finest spas of the ancient world.  See the ruins of the temple where worshipers prayed to the goddess Sulis Minerva and the bath house where they took the waters."

Unique in the UK, Bath Spa's hot mineral rich spring water originally fell as rain up to 10,000 years ago on the nearby Mendip Hills.  On reaching the surface of the ground the water is around 46 degrees C / 115 degrees F, but naturally cools to the optimum bathing temperature of 35 degrees C / 94 degrees F.  With over 42 minerals, Bath and its waters have a long association with well being as the water was said to cure all manner of skin conditions and ailments. 

Back in the first century AD the Romans established an impressive lifestyle in Bath - the place they called Aquae Sulis.  The museum housed within the Roman Baths does an excellent job at recreating the experience of living at that time and is well worth a visit.  Sampling the hot mineral water is not to be missed, with it's distinctive taste which you feel just has to be doing you good.

The word Spa comes from the Latin phrase 'Salus Per Aquam' or 'health through water'.  Although the original Roman Baths have long been closed to bathers, there are two options if you'd like to try a dip in the spa water yourself.  Either the public access Thermae Bath Spa with it's open air rooftop pool, or at the fabulous Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel.  This centrally located five star boutique hotel offers a wonderful Bath House experience in it's luxurious private spa.  Starting with a short spa consultation I was given a small pouch of salts infused with a chosen essential oil, which I was to inhale at various times going around the complex to enhance well being - including alternating between the hot mineral water pools and cold showers, infrared sauna or steam rooms.  A truly relaxing and reviving experience, one I'd definitely love to repeat.  

The Georgian age was a golden era for Bath, with Jane Austen one of the most famous residents in Regency times and Beau Nash encouraged the fashionable set to 'take the waters' in the Pump Room.  Built in the second half of the 18th Century, John Wood the Younger designed the iconic Royal Crescent comprising 30 houses. 

Number One is now a museum and as a restored Georgian townhouse, gives a true impression of the interiors of the time.  The costumed character at the door welcomes visitors from all over the world.

Pulteney Bridge is another architectural highlight and takes you over in the direction of the Holburne Museum.  I didn't have time to fit in going to this gem, but it's always good to have a reason to return...

A Tale of Two Cities (German)

Gemuetlichkeit is a wonderful German word and difficult to translate directly into English, as it sums up more of a feeling of well-being, comfort and convivial atmosphere.  Having recently returned from an excellent site visit to two impressive German destinations - Dresden and Leipzig, I was happy to experience lots of 'gemuetlichkeit' throughout an action packed trip.

Arriving in Dresden for the first time and staying at the Westin hotel on the banks of the River Elbe was an ideal place to start.  Looking across to the old town, a glass of chilled wine in hand whilst enjoying the peachy sunset, set the scene.  The Germans have made an art of gemuetlichkeit and I easily blended in to the bar terrace, where small groups of friends had gathered to relax, chat and simply make the most of a beautiful warm evening.

A morning walking tour of Dresden was a fascinating insight to the city, where the influence of Augustus the Strong is still keenly felt today.  The Baroque architecture is so impressive.  From the Zwinger - built in 1710 for celebrating a wedding, to the Palace Museum, and incredible Frauenkirche, to name just three buildings.  There truly is such a wealth of interesting places to explore, including the Transport Museum housed in a former Royal stables built in the 16th Century to accommodate 100 horses.  Here I saw an apt quote on the wall: "Nur wo du zu Fuss warst, bist du auch wirklich gewesen" which roughly translated means that only when you walk do you really see... How true, remembering to keep looking up at the architecture everywhere offers so many riches.

A visit to the Volkswagen Transparent Factory was a high-tech experience of Germany's largest car manufacturer. (10.2m cars were produced in 2016).  With a focus on producing electric cars, the market is expected to be 25% electric by 2020.

After an overnight stay at the excellent Taschenberg Palais Kempinski hotel and a delightful breakfast sitting outside in the hotel's courtyard, site visits to the Conference Center at Messe Dresden and Ostrapark followed.  Both offering extensive meeting space.  With the Radebeul wine region of Saxony only a 30 minute drive out of Dresden, we then had the highlight of visiting the Schloss Wackerbarth Winery.  Very small in output terms (600,000 bottles per year which equates to 0.4% of German wine production) this beautiful location would be ideal for a special occasion.

Next stop was to Dresden's Neustadt railway station to take the high speed train service to Leipzig, Germany's largest train station and fastest growing city.  With a journey time of under an hour, this was a swift and comfortable way to connect the two locations.  Dinner at the five-star boutique Hotel Furstenhof was a charming finish to the day.

An overnight stay at the Westin Leipzig and we were on our way for a morning city tour by foot, taking in the Kongresshalle am Zoo - unique event space adjacent to Leipzig Zoo.  After lunch at the Radisson Blu hotel, next stop was the Leipzig Porsche Plant where 650 cars a day are produced.  With the tag line 'more emotions per hour' touring the manufacturing site and being professionally driven at break neck speed in a Panamera certainly lived up to that description.  The customer center was designed in the shape of a diamond:

A wonderful evening concert 'Classic Airleben' was the perfect end to the day, relaxing in the open air setting listening to world class music performed by the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra in the Rosenthal Park, with a picnic.

An overnight stay at the Westin Leipzig gave us the chance to have a final morning in Leipzig, experiencing the city from a different angle on a boat tour.  Packed with so much to see and do, both Dresden and Leipzig offered so much more than I had anticipated and both deserve a longer visit to explore more deeply.  Work aside, as a fan of the fabulous traditional German Christmas markets I think December would be a magical time for a return trip and the chance to soak up a festive style of 'gemuetlichkeit'.  Just imagine some light snow, a concert of seasonal music, mulled wine, the delicious coffee and cake combinations the Germans do so well and some tempting gift shopping...A perfect Winter long weekend to look forward to.

My grateful thanks to the German Convention Bureau for hosting the itinerary, which included other notable features from travelling by Trabi Safari to the Deutsches Hygiene-Museum Conference Center; site inspections at the Hotel Pullman Dresden Newa, Impact Hub Dresden - a start-up and meeting space, Maritim Hotel and International Congress Center Dresden.  No wonder we clocked up record numbers of steps taken and worth every one.  Providing such a helpful resource for event planners organising any type of conference / congress / event in Germany, the GCB really streamlines the process and is a pleasure to work with.  I highly recommend both the CGB and choosing destinations in Germany, especially Dresden and Leipzig which both offer exceptional value for money compared to other European cultural hot spots.

Highlights of New York

Inspiring, dynamic and wonderful, I never tire of visiting New York and enjoying the unique energy the city has in abundance.  There is always so much that's new to discover, as well as the chance to return to favourite places, providing welcome continuity in an ever-changing world.  This time I had the privilege of being there with a small group of six Australians, four of whom had never been to the USA before.  We had an adventure and loved every moment, from taking in the impressive views from the observation deck of the Empire State building, to riding the Staten Island Ferry past the Statue of Liberty, exploring Brooklyn, walking the impressive High Line gardens, and a wonderful day in the Hamptons, despite really dire weather. 

Having taken the Jitney coach service from mid-Manhattan to Southampton we began our day out of the city with a restorative coffee at the excellent East Hampton Coffee Company, where they serve the most delicious cinnamon rolls ever.

Perhaps the premium wine tasting at the impressive Wolffer Estate Vineyard also helped... 

Followed by lunch of lobster rolls at Bostwick's chowder house, which were truly superb and worth the trip alone. That dining experience had been on my bucket list for years and now very happily fulfilled.

New York city's restaurant scene was a daily indulgence, thankfully balanced with walking miles, but even so some corrective diet action back home is the order of the day.  From the iconic pastrami on rye at Katz's delicatessen - famed for the Meg Ryan scene from the film 'When Harry met Sally', to our final night dinner at the fabulous Union Square Cafe, my vote for the most amazing dessert on the trip goes to the totally decadent S'mores concoction at The Smith opposite the Lincoln Center.  Featuring rich creamy chocolate mousse, delicious toasted marshmallow and Graham cracker biscuit crunch this definitely created a 'wow' response at the table and was the perfect taste to finish with.  New York, I will be back!

The Culture and Charms of Extremadura

From Game of Thrones filming locations to Iberico ham production, I was very fortunate to experience this hidden area of Spain for a workshop and familiarisation visit for Tasting Places this Spring.

The Extremadura region is as large as the Netherlands, but only has one million inhabitants compared to the 17 million population of the Netherlands.  Consequently there's a lot of countryside, perfect to explore on a self-drive holiday.  Merida is less than two hours from Seville and a great place to start.  Once capital of Lusitania (Spain and Portugal), Merida was founded in 25BC.  Staying at the wonderful Parador in the centre of Merida, complete with storks nesting on the roof, everywhere was within walking distance. 

With history dating back nearly 2,000 years Merida has some of the finest Roman ruins in Spain including the longest Roman built bridge (790m) in the world.  There's also an impressive Roman ampitheatre and Temple of Diana. The National Roman Museum is well worth a visit and the modern architecture cleverly evokes the feeling of being in a public Roman building.

After Merida we continued to the Dehesa for the chance to learn all about Iberico ham, which involves a five year process including ageing after curing.  No wonder Extremadura ham has its own Designation of Origin status.

Only an hour's drive from Merida, the ancient town of Caceres was another delight.  Designated a World Heritage City by UNESCO in 1986, it blends architecture from many civilizations throughout history and in 2015 was named Spanish Capital of Gastronomy.

Last destination on the itinerary was Trujillo, a walled town (and one of the locations used for the Game of Thrones filming), which was the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of Peru.  There's an equestrian statue of him in the main square.  Just outside Trujillo the Habla Wine Cellar is an impressive contemporary vineyard to visit for a tasting.

Never having been to Madrid before I then spent an extra couple of days exploring the city before returning to London.  Being able to walk everywhere was a pleasant surprise as Madrid is quite a compact city.  Visiting the Thyssen Museum was a highlight.  As I'd avidly watched Paul Hollywood's City Bakes television programme on Madrid I was also keen to try some specialities including the famed churros with hot chocolate at San Gines.  Unbelievably open 24 hours a day and 365 days a year, this renowned place has been going since 1894 (and invariably there's a queue, but worth the wait).

   

So next time you're wondering where in Europe to go, remember central Spain and the wealth of options off the beaten track.  

Highlights of Myanmar as a solo female traveller

Lured by images of mystical dawn views across the ancient temples of Bagan, to palm lined beaches, I spontaneously made travel plans to experience Myanmar, which is neighboured by Thailand, Laos and China in the east, also India in the west.  I always enjoy escaping the grey gloom and rain of mid-Winter in England, so every February I head to warmer climes to nurture my soul.  Returning home to early Spring, feeling invigorated and inspired is such a tonic.  

My great Uncle Ted had served in Burma as it was then called, during the Second World War and regaled us with lengthy stories of his experiences there.  Thankfully my journey was far quicker, although there are no direct flights from the UK.  I flew from London to Yangon via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and was delighted to check in to the luxuriously comfortable Strand Hotel in Yangon.  Established by the Sarkies brothers who also opened Raffles Hotel in Singapore, along with the E&O Hotel in Penang, the Strand was originally described as the finest hotel east of the Suez and in its colonial heyday was frequented by the likes of Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling.  Totally refurbished and re-opened just a few months ago, the Strand is now clearly back at the top of its league.

The main sightseeing highlight in Yangon is the impressive Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar's most sacred Buddhist shrine.  Dating back many centuries the current stupa was built in 1769 and is covered in real gold leaf.  The glinting structure dominates the Yangon skyline and attracts pilgrims and tourists in large numbers.

Having set the scene in Yangon, I then flew to Mandalay to pick up The Strand cruise on the Ayeyarwady River.  Before boarding there was time to visit U Bein's Bridge, another Myanmar highlight.   This new sister ship to the Strand hotel totally exceeded expectations

and was the highlight of my whole trip.  I'm now a convert to the delights of river cruising.  Having previously thought such a trip was not ideal when travelling solo and even though the other passengers were all couples, there was a lovely house party atmosphere on board, the crew were truly fabulous and the cruise was very sociable with everyone joining together for pre-dinner drinks, shore excursions and on one particular evening a memorable barbecue set up on a sand bank alongside the anchored ship.

At the colourful market in Bagan, displays of so many things I'd never seen before caught my eye, such as these betel leaves.  

With many fascinating temples, monasteries, stupas and shrines covering a 26 mile archeological site, it is easy to have temple fatigue.  There are over 3,000 structures from the mid-1100's to mid-1300's when Bagan was the imperial capital.  Even Marco Polo visited the area. At the end of the river cruise I had two additional nights in Bagan, although most of the main sights had all been incorporated during the cruise excursions. Having some much needed relaxation time back at my hotel to balance all the sightseeing was very welcome and my favourite pool-side lunch was this traditional tea leaf salad, along with fresh avocado juice.  In Myanmar avocados are used as fruit.

From Bagan I then flew to visit Inle Lake, populated by the Intha people who live in stilt villages, growing crops on floating gardens and fishing using a unique leg-rowing technique. Travelling around the lake was by motorised long boat, which was a speedy way to cover the distances involved and depended on the knowledge of an experienced boat man. I had a private guide in each location throughout my trip, which was essential to me being able to go to so many incredible places and have peace of mind about travelling by myself.  A major benefit was also being able to tailor-make the itinerary to my own interests, rather than be caught up in a large group with a set timetable.

Around the lake are many craft workshops including weaving, silver smiths, and a cheroot making factory.

From Inle Lake I flew to Thwande on the west coast and the resort of Ngapali situated on the Bay of Bengal, to enjoy a few days independently at the beach to finish my holiday.  Beautiful weather and no agenda apart from spa treatments, were the perfect combination.  Fresh coconut juice from one of the ever smiling fruit vendors was a daily pleasure.

Soft sand and body temperature sea with gentle waves were a delight.  Even though building work is taking place to establish new hotels, thankfully development is low level and in keeping with the surroundings.  Ngapali is a gem and was the perfect end to my Myanmar adventure.