Bali Time

Just a couple of weeks after an e-mail out of the blue from a friend in Australia I took a flight to Bali to meet for a spontaneous holiday and the chance to re-discover this unique place I last travelled to over 15 years ago.  Previously as a first time visitor I was struck by the special atmosphere, delicious cuisine and spiritual culture of the island.  I vowed to return and will again as Bali has that effect on you, once smitten you wouldn't want to give this magical place up, with it's soothing sounds of gamelan music, the warm air perfumed with frangipani flowers and the daily offerings graciously made to the many shrines and temples. Even though there has been widespread development and traffic congestion is often a problem, it is still possible to enjoy Bali's many charms and wonderful landscape.

Volcanic Mount Batur

The flight from Sydney is only five hours, but from London mine took 19 which didn't feel so long on the way out but certainly did on the way back.  It was all worth it though, for the beautiful weather, therapeutic spa treatments and wonderful food.  We started in Nusa Dua for a short stay relaxing at the beach, but were keen to move inland to Ubud, the artistic hub of Bali.

Ducks in the rice fields

My inspiration was Janet de Neefe's evocative book 'Fragrant Rice' about her 'continuing love affair with Bali, a tale of passion, marriage and food.'  Her insights to the ancient beliefs and rituals still followed in Bali, woven in with achievable recipes, provides a greater understanding of this enchanting island.  Top of my 'to do' list was to participate in one of her excellent cooking classes held at the charming Honeymoon Guesthouse in central Ubud. The Tuesday class starts with a visit to the market.

Learning about coconut palm sugar

Janet demonstrating Sambul Tuwung (Roasted eggplant sambal)

Ubud has particularly become victim of it's own success and the excess traffic here means roads are often at a standstill, but somehow drivers navigate their way through without stress and all in Bali time.  (Meaning it simply takes as long as it takes, you have to be patient and it helps to not wear a watch).  Zebra crossings are a notional idea and disciplined tourists who valiantly wait at one to cross the road soon realise it makes no difference.  Drivers beep their horns to warn you they're approaching, but don't stop for pedestrians.  Understandable really when hoards of people file constantly along the narrow pavements in single line like ants. 

Kelapa Muda - whole young coconut and the perfect refreshing drink on a hot day

The restaurant scene in Ubud is excellent and really warrants a longer stay to do justice to trying everywhere that appeals.  Whether stopping for a pick-me-up mint, lime and lemongrass iced tisane at Locavore to Go:

To a fabulous dinner at Hujan with really good wine (a rarity in Bali - both choice available and high cost due to the luxury import tax), there's no shortage of tempting options.  

As Janet beautifully writes in her book...'take time to nurture your soul' and although meant in the context of her wholesome recipes I think being in Bali is good for reconnecting to the joy of life which we so often forget in the business of Western living.  Simple pleasures such as honouring each day and the delight of finding a welcome offering at your door.

Culinary highs in Ravello

Being in Italy always thrills me with such an alluring culture, climate, lifestyle and particularly for the fabulous food and wines.  I've just returned from a wonderful trip to Rome and the Amalfi coast, where a true highlight was to experience the Mamma Agata Cooking and Wine School in Ravello.  Perched high on the cliffs with stunning sea views, spending a day there is a really special experience. 

From the moment Chiara greets you and you have a first taste of the delicious signature lemon cake with coffee on arrival, you just know you're in for a treat.  Light as air and infused with the essence of Amalfi's famous lemons, which you see growing in the terraced gardens, the cake is stunning in it's simplicity.

The day's cooking demonstrations in the house kitchen are very leisurely and informative with plenty of tastings along the way, culminating in a wonderful lunch served on the covered terrace, with wine produced from the family vineyard.

Chiara, Mamma Agata's daughter is a fabulous host, and the day flows beautifully from Mamma Agata's cooking demonstrations in the morning, (making Parmigiana de Melanzane above) to Gennaro, Chiara's husband, taking over for the rest of the programme including Spaghetti del Contadino, or 'farmer's spaghetti' below.  They all share a deep passion for cooking, keeping ingredients simple, real and seasonal and that all elusive element of love is clearly apparent in all the dishes prepared.

A further pasta dish of Pappardelle con peperoni e salsicca (sausage and red pepper pasta), then Mamma Agata's famous Lemon Chicken (Pollo al limone) served with a green salad completed the lunch, before a final slice of the delectable Dolce al Limone (adored by Humphrey Bogart when Mamma Agata used to cook at Villa Civita).

Having bought the delightful Mamma Agata cookery book and fluted cake tin perfect for recreating the lemon cake at home, I am now all set to enjoy many more tastes of 'The Hidden Treasure' myself, along with priceless memories of a unique day.