Beguiling Brussels

Belgium - home of Hercule Poirot; Herves Adventures of Tin Tin; the European Parliament; and beer to name just a few associations, not least of which is chocolate.  Travelling to Brussels on business has given me some long overdue blog inspiration.  Never having been to the Belgian capital city before I took an earlier Eurostar than necessary to have a few hours exploring, although being a Monday all museums were closed.  Consequently my experiences were centred on the impressive Grand Place, one of Europe's finest historical squares surrounded by ornately decorated guild houses.  Not far from the central square the famous Manneken Pis is synonymous with Brussels and quite a small, jaunty little fellow in reality.  Dating back to 1451 the current statue has been in place since 1619.  I wouldn't usually make a detour to go and see a model of a young boy relieving himself into a small pool, but have to say this attraction is better in reality than the commercial exploitation does justice to.

Apart from indulging in some serious chocolate purchases at the wonderful boutiques, a highlight of my day was to go to Maison Dandoy on the aptly named Rue au Beurre, which has been making delicious 'spectaculoos speculoos' biscuits and serving waffles made from a traditional family recipe since 1829. I chose the Liege waffle which is oval in shape, as opposed to the Belgian waffle which is rectangular and more crunchy.  The walls of the upstairs tea room are decorated with old wooden moulds and the menu quotes:  "Life is for surprise kisses, full moon swims and Dandoy biscuits".  Even if the first two are in short supply, I can attest to the delights of the Dandoy baking.

When I arrived at the tea room I was the only person there but within moments 18 Japanese ladies had filled the tables.  Starting of so sedately with subdued chatter it only took a matter of minutes before they were buoyed by such a sugar high, their loud talking across the floor, girlish giggling and excitement was joyous to witness.  Such simple pleasures as eating wonderful waffles with chocolate sauce and ice cream gave huge enjoyment.  I couldn't understand a word apart from repeated 'hi' or yes, but they were having genuine fun and it was delightful.  I'm sure Brussels has many cultural sights to see, but this for me was a charming encounter.  I highly recommend a visit to Maison Dandoy, (of which there are other branches in the city) whether with or without a party of Japanese tourists.

Out of Africa

'Mind the Gap' is an announcement I most associate with taking the tube in London, but had a whole new meaning on the trip I've just completed to Zambia and Botswana.  Here in the depths of the African bush, 'mind the gap' was a warning to take care stepping onto whatever river craft was providing your method of transport and not to fall in to the mighty Zambesi, home to hippos and crocodiles.  Now I shall smile every time I'm on the London underground comparing this totally urban experience to the complete opposite of being in the African bush.

2013 marks the bicentenary of Dr David Lingstone's birth and although the now famous Victoria Falls were not brought to the wider world's attention until this Scottish missionary, doctor and explorer discovered them, they were infact well known to the indiginous tribes of the area for a long time prior.  Named after Queen Victoria the falls were originally called Mosi-oa Tunya or 'the Smoke that Thunders' by the Kololo tribe in the 1800's to describe the massive volume of falling water creating huge spray. One of the wonders of the world, visiting Victoria Falls when the water is high means being totally drenched and pounded with water spray so strong it's like having intense power hoses aimed at you from every direction.  The plastic ponchos optimistically handed out in advance are no more effective than wearing a paper coat would be.  It's hilarious. The water assaults you from every direction with such a force you can understand why the majority of visitors take their shoes off to walk through the torrents rather than end up totally saturated.

I was very fortunate to be part of a small group on a special trip to experience the best of the region, starting with the joy of travelling Virgin Upper Class from Heathrow to Johannesburg with the wonderful flat bed service, connecting with an onward flight to Livingstone airport neighbouring the falls and staying at the Royal Livingstone resort.  There's something deeply decadent about enjoying creature comforts in total luxury when located in the African bush.  Definitely my favourite way to travel.  We kayaked on the Zambesi; visited a local school; watched zebra from close proximity; and then crossed the border into Botswana for a day's incredible game drive to Chobe National Park with the most magical site of herds of elephant; before transferring to the wonderful Royal Chundu Zambesi River Lodge.  I tried fishing for the first time and enjoyed visiting a neighbouring village, interspersed with the obligatory sundowner gin and tonic and bird watching the most colourful and exotic feathered friends I have ever seen.  Somehow being in Africa expands your senses and a few days of such inspiring nature were a wonderful boost before returning to the snow and grey skies of England.  Birds have the right idea, I need to migrate every Winter myself and return to the UK in late Spring.

Miracle of Mindfulness

Guilty for not updating my blog for the past few weeks and now trying to decide where best to start covering all my recent travels reminded me of salient lessons evident everywhere I've just been in South East Asia.  'Live in the moment'.  'Above all enjoy your life'. 'Give whatever you may be doing your full attention'.  My adventure began in Bagkok, capital of Thailand and hectic urban mass.  The charm still exists, although it's best to know where to look.  One of my favourite places is the wonderful Jim Thomson House, now a welcoming museum honouring the life of this fascinating American.  Originally trained as an architect he single-handedly resurrected the Thai silk industry before disappearing without a trace whilst walking in the Cameron Highlands back in the 1960's, whilst on holiday in Malaysia.  Bangkok's Grand Palace with it's impressive Emerald Buddha is not to be missed and for bargain hunters the weekend Chatuchak weekend market is a definite highlight, but for pure pleasure nothing beats a relaxing dinner on the riverside at the iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel.  One of those essential 'bucket list' experiences, but preferably repeated frequently.  

After a few days at the renowned Chiva Som spa at Hua Hin on the east coast, my journey then involved a two hour flight from Bangkok airport to Luang Prabang, originally the ancient capital of Laos.  Now a UNESCO world heritage city the 33 temples or wats and 111 historic Lao-French buildings which were noted for restoration have meant that this relatively small location is a delightful concentration of Lao culture.  Bicycles are a popular way to explore, as are the reliable tuk-tuks (which I would never advise anyone taking in Bangkok - not just for the dense traffic with associated fumes, but for the frequent tourist scams).  I had long wanted to experience Luang Prabang and it did not disappoint.  Watching the monks collecting their morning alms at dawn (food to last them that day), was very humbling in the knowledge they then shared their supplies with those less fortunate.  The monks themselves are detached from any material ownership and lead very simple but highly spiritual lives, worshiping in inspiring surroundings.  The Vat Xieng Thong temple as shown in my photo dates back to the 16th century and is now being freshly gilded.  Further to the centre of town the Royal Palace Museum gives an insight to the city's imperial past, but as an unexpected bonus on my visit there was a photography exhibition called 'The Floating Buddha' which captured beautifully the essence of this special place.  I did not venture on the murky Mekong river to explore further into the countryside as I felt deeply content immersed in the relaxed atmosphere of Luang Prabang, the jewel of Laos.  Definitely a place to live in the moment and enjoy simple pleasures to delight the senses, from the heady perfume of the Frangipani flowers (Lao's national flower) to a delicious cup of Lao grown coffee at the delightful Cafe Ban Vat Sene..

Happy New Year 2013!

The traditional sentiment of 'Out with the old and in with the new' is a wonderful fresh start to January.  Inspired by the first blue skies in ages I went for a walk on the beautiful East Wittering beach in West Sussex, not realising how crowded it would be.  January 1st was the scheduled 'Big Dip' for those hardy souls prepared to brave the cold and churning sea for an event organised by the local scouts.  Totally unaware of this happening I thankfully arrived just after it finished at lunchtime when the hoardes were leaving the beach.  I've never seen so many people there, even on the hottest of Summer weekends.  My plan to enjoy the solace of being at the coast was somewhat scuppered, but I managed to find a moment of calm to take the photo looking across to the Isle of Wight.

I don't believe in making new year resolutions which are rarely kept, but the concept of aspirations is far more appealing.  Take the opportunity to consider desired goals and achievements, then set out to make them happen.  During mid-Winter when there's a tendency to simply want to hibernate and life may seem a struggle, now's the time to boost self motivation and be thankful for all the blessings in our lives.  If you're feeling in the doldrums make a daily habit of writing down 10 things you're grateful for.  Keep a running list and you'll be surprised at how much good there is.  Focus on the positive and it truly increases.  So whether it's the fact you enjoy being able to walk, see, taste, breathe or enjoy the beauty of nature, the stars, seeing birds in flight or raindrops like diamonds on branches, stop and savour the moment.  Remember every day is a gift, that's why it's called the present.

Wishing you a very happy 2013, full of peace, joy and good health.