India weaves her magic and somehow draws you back... The traditional welcome of a garland of scented flowers such as heady jasmine along with a vermilion dot placed ceremoniously on your forehead, to experiencing the skilled crafts people making jewellery, weaving and creating intricate paintings. Each has a story to tell. The aroma of street food being prepared from flat breads to savoury pastries, market stalls piled high with everything from colourful bangles to clothes and there are cows randomly wandering along the streets. Their sacred status affording them right of way. Monkeys shrieking and jumping from corrugated rooftop to the next in the tangle of alleyways that form hectic Chandri Chowk in Old Delhi. Tuk-tuk rides not for the faint-hearted as drivers launch out into the chaos of the busy roads, although seemingly unwritten rules prevail and the heavy, noisy traffic flows as if following a complicated dance routine. Everything seems dialled up to the maximum, with extremes of wealth and poverty.
Hauntingly beautiful mantras sung in a deep spiritual voice at an unexpected music performance whilst exploring the impressive Mehrangarh Fort in the 'Blue City' of Jodhpur, to the signature scent aromatherapy oil exotic with frankincense perfuming the air whilst staying at the boutique Raas Haveli there and a tempting cocktail from the rooftop bar enjoying the warm evening breeze with views reminiscent of the film Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, are just a few of the special and evocative memories which have left a deep resonance to be savoured.
Originally launched as a tourist campaign by the Government of India in 2002, the spelling as 'Incredible !ndia' still actively encapsulates the amazing experiences travelling there provides. India has the second largest population in the world (after China) at 1.3 billion. Rajasthan, known as the 'Land of Kings', is particularly rich in culture and heritage. As one of the 29 Indian states, it is located in the north of the country near Pakistan. I arrived in New Delhi, the capital of India with a population of around 20 million people and one of the most polluted cities on earth. From leaving the airport terminal building the whole essence of India envelops you. This was my second trip to Rajasthan and the assault on the senses was as vivid as I had encountered on my first visit eight years ago.
As the starting point for the famed Golden Triangle route from New Delhi, my itinerary took in Agra for the iconic Taj Mahal stunning marble mausoleum completed in 1653 and one of the Seven Wonders of the World, followed by Jodhpur and then an overly long road journey (nine hours instead of the anticipated five and a half) to Jaipur known as the 'Pink City' - so called for the rose colour sandstone used in many iconic buildings (or possibly from when the city was painted pink to welcome the State visit of Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, in 1876), finishing back in New Delhi for my return flight to the UK.
It's true that you see all of India at a train station. Large families and groups of travellers patiently wait sitting on the concrete floor for lengthy train connections, passing the time by sleeping or sharing food, beggars ranging from young children to disabled elderly are at every turn, the acrid smells and incoherent loud tannoy announcements invariably make train travel more of an adventure than bargained for, but going by train is a chance to truly experience aspects of India otherwise missed. We took the efficient Gatimaan Express from Delhi to Agra, meaning we could visit the Taj Mahal as a comfortable day trip with a journey time of one hour 40 minutes each way in air conditioned comfort. I was reminded of an encounter Michael Portillo enjoyed whilst on his Indian Railway Journeys television series, when a fellow passenger had an impromptu dance in the busy carriage with him, exclaiming 'Balle Balle' which is a Punjabi expression similar to 'whoop whoop' expressing a feeling of happiness. The smiling man shared his wonderful advice of: 'Live life laughing, no stress, no tension'. There is above all a positivity in India that's hard not to be touched by. Balle Balle indeed.
