Gothenburg Winter Wonderland

There's something wonderfully uplifting in the busy pre-Christmas rush and that's the chance to take a long weekend trip and enjoy the delights of a traditional Christmas market. For me this usually means an annual trip to Germany.  I love the festive atmosphere; delicious seasonal delights to eat and drink; and the chance to choose some new tree decorations.  I've found though that some of the more popular German markets have become victim of their own success and chronic over-crowding at the main markets in Berlin last year inspired a re-think for 2015.  So this year for a complete change my destination was Sweden and the city of Gothenburg.  Gale force winds, followed by heavy rain and grey skies were not the cold crisp days with light snow I'd hoped for, but Gothenburg didn't disappoint and provided some gems to discover.  

My two favourite Christmas markets were both relatively small and in historical areas of the city - the Haga neighbourhood with it's traditional architecture is home to some quaint old cafes, ideal for the Swedish 'fika' or coffee break.  Cafe Kringlan is on the main street of Haga Nygata and was like stepping back in time. 

A popular choice from the tempting counter display and perfect with a coffee or hot chocolate, is the cinnamon bun with it's snowy dusting of sugar crystals.

With lots of tempting homemade treats on offer, the 'S' shaped saffron buns were a simple and light alternative with a distinctive saffron taste. Both ideal options for a sustaining morning break.

Kronhuset Christmas Market was larger than the Haga one (which was only really a few stalls on one street, but with some interesting small shops to browse along the way).  Incorporating one of the oldest buildings in Gothenburg built in the 1650's, Kronhuset had a good range of interesting crafts, along with an emporium packed with traditional sweets and chocolate.  The Swedes certainly seem to adore their sweet treats.

My weekend in Gothenburg also included a visit to Liseberg, the largest amusement park in Sweden.  Home to a variety of rides, an ice rink and different attractions, it is particularly ideal for children.  Then as an escape from the bad weather, the Nordstan shopping mall is vast and undercover, so was an ideal option for some retail therapy.  It was also my first experience of a 'Canto' group of singers, rather like a flash mob of dancers, but folk who looked as if they were just out shopping but all came together in seemingly spontaneous and delightful Christmas song.  

For me though, the overall highlight of Gothenburg was a fabulous lunch at Sjomagasinet.  This one-star Michelin restaurant is located on the waterfront and housed in an old warehouse dating back to 1775, originally used by the East India Company.  Here Owner Ulf Wagner has created a delightful wooden-beamed restaurant offering superb classic and innovative Swedish cooking based on his belief that ..."a meal has three dimensions - food, beverages and spiritual fulfillment with an ambiance that encompasses the total experience". With award-winning Head Chef Gustav Tragardh and a great in-house team, this is truly a destination restaurant worth the return flight to Gothenburg alone. 

 During December the traditional Christmas Buffet is an impressive selection of dishes, with a particular focus on seafood  - I'm now a total fan of herrings (which previously I never thought I liked) served with miniature dill potatoes and accompaniments such as beetroot salad; there was a delectable array of main courses including succulent frikadeller (Swedish meatballs, although I particularly liked the cod version) with side dishes including the iconic Jansonn's Temptation (a rich and creamy potato gratin made with onions and anchovies); along with a whole buffet dedicated to desserts.  Who could resist Gingerbread Tiramisu; mini Lingonberry cakes; a chocolate covered marzipan confection with glace fruits; macaroons and more besides.  The Swedish concept of 'largom' or 'just enough' tends to go out of the window with such an extensive feast.  

Christmas markets aside, Sjomagasinet is my number one recommendation for a visit to Gothenburg.  Be sure to try the house Aquavit called Nubbe, which is the perfect accompaniment to the seafood extravaganza.  Thankfully Sjomagasinet is a year-round gourmet treat and would be particularly amazing in the Summer with the option to dine outside (although without the festive buffet).  

As the Swedes would say: God Jul, or Happy Christmas!

Harvest time in Alsace

Staying in a converted ice-making plant was a first for me (the Hotel Regent Petite France), as was being in Strasbourg - official seat of the European Parliament; as well as the Council of Europe.  The short visit was at the end of my recent participation in the 'French Meeting Hub' bringing together industry professionals in the world of events, conferences, corporate and incentive travel.  Strasbourg was the culmination of an excellent itinerary which showcased the Alsace region.

Starting in picturesque Colmar was charming, with it's Hansel and Gretel style architecture. Dating back to 823AD and a city since the 1200's Colmar has much to explore and picturesque waterways flanked by timbered buildings with a profusion of window boxes overflowing with flowering geraniums.  Bartholdi,designer of the Statue of Liberty, came from Colmar and his house is now a museum celebrating his life and works.  On a more contemporary note and due to open soon the new Herzog & de Meuron designed extension to the Unterlinden Museum (housed originally in a Dominican convent) is just one of many good reasons to make a trip. 

Part of 'La route du vin' or wine road, the Autumn harvest is a wonderful time of year to experience the region.  A wealth of pretty medieval villages line the way, such as Eguisheim - voted 'the most preferred French village' in 2013 complete with storks' nests on the roof tops.  Even in October the weather was warm enough to not need a jacket.

Wherever you go in the area you're sure to find wonderful Kougelhopf - a speciality enriched bread with variations including dried fruit, to a more savoury one with olives and walnuts, particularly good to enjoy with a chilled glass of excellent local wine.  

In close proximity to Germany the pork culture is strong and traditional Choucroute / Sauerkraut is probably the most famous popular dish, but not for all tastes.

Pork aside I really enjoyed my taste of Alsace, which is such an easily accessible area.  Definitely one to consider whether for work or pleasure.

Snapshot of South Korea

Chef Judy Joo's wonderful television series Korean Food Made Simple had whetted my appetite to discover more of this fascinating country not just to experience the food, but the cities and countryside too.  Recently I was fortunate to enjoy a whistle-stop visit to see some highlights.  Starting in the capital and mega-city of Seoul, the sheer scale of the hugely built-up layout takes some orientation.  This cultural super power is firmly on the fashion map, hosting luxury brand product launches and riding the 'Hallyu' wave of being cool.  K-Pop music and television dramas are major industries, so too cosmetics.  Household brands such as Samsung and LG are known globally, but domestic shopping knows no bounds and is a national sport.  Koreans love to display their wealth as a badge of success.  Opening on 1st October the long awaited Four Seasons Hotel Seoul will provide a new level of luxury accommodation in the city. Seoul bridges extremes from the ancient to modern such as the impressive Zaha Hadid-designed futuristic DDP, or Dongdaemun Design Plaza.  

Culinary adventures include a traditional Korean barbeque - not in the sense of an outdoor grill over charcoal, but an indoor restaurant table-based barbeque where diners cook their own choice of meat and seafood.  Definitely a healthy option and accompanied by the ubiquitous kimchi, a fermented vegetable dish and much loved by Koreans as a daily staple.  Kimchi's appeal is growing beyond Korea due to it's nutritional value making it a 'super-food'.  Bibimbap was a favourite of mine, comprising steamed rice with various vegetables and beef mixed together with Korean chili paste.

A highlight experience of Seoul for me was the Jingwansa Temple, less than one hour from the city centre but a world apart.  Here a charming Bhuddist monk showed the group around whilst sharing soul-touching wisdom, the core message of which is 'Be Happy' and not to carry troubles and worries around with you - Let Them Go.  The main temple dates back to 1011 and with a backdrop of the Bukhansan National Park provided a serene and contemplative moment of calm in an otherwise hectic itinerary.

After Seoul a long road trip to Gyeongju was justified by the delicious walnut cakes I bought unexpectedly at a motorway coffee stop - freshly cooked and a specialty of the nut growing region.   

Gyeongju is often referred to as the 'museum without walls' as there are so many historical treasures designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.  My trip concluded in Bosun, South Korea's second largest city and situated on the south coast.  The famous Haeundae Beach area is hugely popular as a holiday destination.  In addition to being the world's 5th busiest port, Bosun hosts an International Film Festival; and annual International Fireworks Festival; as well as having the world's largest department store (not to mention some wonderful restaurants).

South Korea has so much to discover and its always good to have an excuse to go back somewhere.  Next time I'd like to experience Jeju, a volcanic island off the south west coast.

"I love Paris..."

Eiffel Tower image: www.stevenmorris.com

The wonderful Cole Porter song 'I love Paris...in the Spring time; I love Paris in the Fall; I love Paris in the Winter when it drizzles; I love Paris in the Summer when it sizzles..." certainly applies to me.  I really do love Paris and the more I go the more time I crave to spend there.  I'm very fortunate that my work enables me to travel and I've recently returned from a wonderful week in the French capital.  Having overheard a snippet of conversation between two women at the airport talking about 'living the dream' I totally know why they were so enthusiastic.

At heart I am a born and bred Londoner, but the reason Paris appeals so much is the timeless continuity of neighbourhoods - the arrondissements each with their own distinctive character, the local boulangeries, and specialist food suppliers; regular street markets for the freshest fruit, vegetables and array of other ingredients; convivial cafes, independent boutiques and small shops.  London is becoming a 'homogenised' city of luxury brands as increasingly high rents squeeze out the small businesses which cannot afford the overheads.  There's still a respect in Paris (and indeed France) for taking the time to maximise the rhythm of the day.  In a queue for anything, whether buying train tickets or bread, others waiting will offer their opinion and become involved in the simplest of transactions.

The book 'Almost French' by Australian writer Sarah Turnbull traces her own adventure of living in France.  An amusing insight to the cultural challenges she experienced in moving to Paris, she recounts how the French man in her life had an "abhorrence of tracksuit pants" and goes on to explain Parisian females ability to ooze casual chic.  Sarah's interview of Ines de la Fressange, fomer muse of Karl Lagerfeld, beautifully encompasses the ethos - as does Ines' own book: Parisian Chic - A Style Guide. 

On this past trip though I've thoroughly enjoyed reading David Lebovitz' New York Times bestseller 'The Sweet Life in Paris' described as a 'deliciously funny, offbeat, and irreverent look at the city of light, cheese, chocolate, and other diving confections.'  I highly recommend it and the appealing selection of recipes included in the text.  Chocolate spice bread is high on my list of things to try.  Another excellent read with recipes too is 'Lunch in Paris' by American journalist Elizabeth Bard which again is so evocative of adjusting to life in the City of Light.

Wikipedia has solved my curiousity as to why Paris is known as the 'City of Light':...'both because of its leading role during the Age of Enlightenment and more literally because Paris was one of the first European cities to adopt gas light in the 1860's.'

This is certainly tourist season in Paris with between 25,000 to 35,000 visitors a day at the Eiffel Tower, queuing for between two and five hours just to get through the ticket barrier.   Perhaps if it's a case of either queue or never go at all people feel compelled to wait, tourists are apt do the strangest things.  Personally I'd skip the line and use the time to enjoy experiencing the attraction from a different perspective.  Lunch at Le Jules Verne restaurant on the second floor with it's direct private lift is a good way to go.  Or a  highlight on my recent trip was to climb the 284 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and watch the 10.00pm illuminations.  (The Eiffel Tower sparkles with magical white lights for just a few minutes on the hour every hour in the evening).  Another great view of wider Paris is to take a guided driving tour by 2CV, the famous Citroen car and so quintessentially French.  However much time I have in Paris there's always somewhere else I'd like to explore, or another gallery to see and different restaurants to try...all good reasons to return.

Hamburg - 'Gateway to the World'

If I had to pick a European city for a short break lots of places come to mind in Italy, France or Spain without even thinking, but Germany has never really been up there as an inspiring choice.  Even though I studied German at school and have continued to learn the language since, Germany has never had the same allure as the Mediterranean countries do. 

It's true, I love to go to the Christmas markets, but Berlin last December didn't live up to expectations and consequently the work trip I've just had to Hamburg was a revelation.  Hamburg has a wonderful charm which was impossible to predict.  The flight from Gatwick took less than an hour and a half, then the S-bahn train link directly from the airport terminal to the city centre took only 25 minutes and cost just Eur3.10.  Once in Hamburg everything is very central and easy to walk to most places from the main station.  Berlin in comparison has no train link from the airport, the city is vast and spread out which means walking for miles to get anywhere and taking lots of public transport. 

Hamburg is thriving and often voted not only as Germany's 'most liveable city' but also ranks in the world table alongside Toronto and Barcelona.  I now see why.  With more bridges than Amsterdam, Venice and London put together, Hamburg is a city based on the water.  From being northern Europe's largest port and major cruise terminal (hence the name 'gateway to the world' as thousands of Europeans embarked for the new life in America and other countries), the HafenCity development will expand Hamburg's city centre by 40% when the project is complete in 10 years' time. 

I was fortunate to stay at the stylish 'grand dame' five-star Atlantic Kempinski Hotel overlooking the Alster Lake, which although a heritage hotel is totally geared to the contemporary traveller.  The extra-wide hallways on each landing were originally designed to store guests' trunks in the golden era of travel when the hotel was built in 1909. Whilst there I had to try the Atlantic Restaurant signature dish of lobster bisque, still being made today to the traditional recipe created in 1909 to celebrate the hotel's opening.  Truly delicious.  With so much to explore Hamburg is a place I will definitely return to.