Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona
Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Thursday 2 November 2017

Best of Bergen

Known as Europe's rainiest city, Bergen wouldn't appeal on it's weather record alone, but inspired by one of Paul Hollywood's City Bakes television programmes and with the chance to catch up with a dear friend over a long weekend, I went to discover the delights of Bergen for myself.  Even though the Summer season officially finished at the end of September, I was so lucky to have blue skies and sunshine for most of my stay recently in October.  Great weather was an unexpected bonus and made such a difference with sightseeing.



Just under two hours' flying time from London, Bergen is Norway's second city after Oslo and has many accolades - European City of Culture, World Heritage City and UNESCO City of Gastronomy.  The photo above shows the old town, representative of how Bergen would have looked at the end of the 1600's (there was a major fire in 1702), complete with authentic wooden alleyways where originally trade was focused on the stockfish industry.  This preserved cod from Northern Norway accounted for 80% of all exports, making Bergen a rich city as well as home to the Hanseatic League, a German trading company which operated in the North and Baltic sea regions for several centuries.



The red-timbered Bryggen Tracteursted is a historical restaurant serving traditional ingredients cooked with a contemporary twist and well worth a visit to try the specialty Prinsefisk or 'Prince Fish' steamed cod filet on asparagus, garnished with lobster, served with a white wine sauce and new potatoes.

Another favourite restaurant of mine was Lysverket located in a 1930's building housing an art museum.  Michelin Guide recommended chef Chris Hatufts serves a delicious modern take on fish soup, although I had wonderful chicken salad featuring roasted carrots and lots of fresh dill. The perfect lunch...



Bergen is also famed as being the gateway to the Fjords of Norway.  A half day cruise, complete with classical music by Grieg playing at scenic highlights was very atmospheric.  Bergen was home to the composer Edvard Grieg and his music truly reflects the landscape he loved. 



With such good weather a trip on the funicular railway 'Floibanen' was a must too, enjoying fabulous views from the top, at 320m above sea level:



Then a leisurely hour's walk back down through fern filled forest:



Followed by a slice of excellent carrot cake, lightly spiced with cinnamon and so freshly baked it was still warm, plus a restorative cup of coffee:



The neighbourhood view from our outdoor table was charming too:



A two-night stay and three full days was plenty long enough to fit in everything we wanted to do and as a city break Bergen really was a delight.  Everywhere is within easy walking distance and impressively everyone speaks English.  As a final note I must just mention a not-to-be-missed coffee shop, Godt Brot, where they bake a daily selection of boller, or seed bun.  There are 12 varieties in total, all with cardamon, using all organic ingredients and the dough is made by hand.  Definitely worth seeking out if you find yourself in Bergen (and they serve good coffee too)...



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