In Praise of Pesto

Purists may argue that true Pesto should only ever be made from basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan and olive oil.  However, I happen to think pesto is the most wonderful concept that lends itself to many guises.  Having just looked the word up in my Italian dictionary I've learnt it simply means "pounded".  Even more reason for some culinary license.  Inspired by my local farmers' market in Arundel last Saturday I bought a bunch of wild garlic leaves to transform into a Spring Pesto which seemed the perfect lunch to enjoy on such a beautiful day (and to celebrate the freedom of working from home).  In the Magimix I blitzed:

100g wild garlic leaves and stems (washed)
2 shallots (peeled) 
100ml olive oil (I used fruity extra virgin, but whatever your preference)
50g unroasted nuts (I had peanuts and Brazils to hand)

Once this was all combined I stirred in 50g grated Parmesan, salt and pepper to taste and a little more olive oil.  All this took less time than the 10 minutes to cook the spelt spaghetti to toss with the pesto.  The quantity made was enough for four portions.  Any remaining will freeze perfectly or it keeps well in an airtight container in the fridge for a few days (topped with a little extra oil to seal it).

Making the most of this idyllic weather we are currently blessed with in the south of England I couldn't resist having my lunch in the garden with a glass of chilled white wine.  It felt totally indulgent but utterly wonderful and true to my ethos that life is for living.  As the Italians would say, Buon Appetito!

Mothering Sunday

Inspired to bake a cake for my Mum on Mother's Day I decided to try my hand at her all time favourite, Battenburg.  Quickly realising I was not keen on fiddling around making half the mixture synthetically coloured pink, I also didn't find a recipe I was happy with.  They all seemed to be for plain sponge covered in marzipan.  I realised I wasn't striving to bake a traditional Battenburg after all but wanted to create an almond cake full of natural flavour and not overly sweet which Battenburg's always seem to be.  Blessed with an extensive cookery book collection and the wonders of the internet I still couldn't find the recipe I was hoping for so made one up based on inspiration from various sources to create what I'd been thinking about.  In case you'd like to give it a go the recipe for my almond cake is below.  As with all baking the most essential and invisible ingredient is love.  To miss this out means the cake will never taste as good, so bake in good spirits and be happy.  I used a heart shape tin as I had one I'd never used in my kitchen cupboard and now seemed the ideal time, but any shape 8" or 9" tin would be fine (just make sure the tin is lined with Bakewell paper to guarantee the cake turns out easily).  Also pre-heat your oven to 190 degrees Centigrade:

6 large eggs (separated into whites and yolks in two different bowls)
200g whole almonds (grind in a food processor when you need them for a far better result than packet ground almonds which are often dry and have lost their flavour)
150g spelt flour (or plain white flour)
2 teaspoons baking powder
200g caster sugar
1 teaspoon natural almond extract
(Yes, that's right there's no fat in this recipe, but trust me, it works)

Filling - one 10oz / 254g  jar of St Dalfour apricot conserve (reserve two dessert spoons for the topping).  This wonderful French fruit spread is sugar free and a pure fruit taste, but apricot jam works well if this is what you have to hand.

Topping - one 250g tub of mascarpone into which you beat the remaining jam, a tablespoon of sieved icing sugar and half a teaspoon of almond extract. 

For the cake mixture first whisk the egg whites by themselves until stiff.  In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until well blended.  Stir the ground almonds, flour and baking powder into the egg yolks and sugar then add the almond extract.  Once combined fold in one tablespoon of the whisked egg whites and when incorporated gently fold in the remaining whisked egg whites. Turn into the prepared tin and bake in the middle of the oven for approximately 35 minutes until golden brown and the surface of the cake springs back to the touch.  (After 20 minutes I needed to cover my tin with a sheet of silicone paper to stop the cake from browning too much - it's always worth checking).  Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin on a rack before turning out. 

Once cool cut the cake in half through the middle and spread the apricot layer on the base half before sandwiching the top back on.  Spread the mascarpone topping around the sides and top.  The almond cake is then ready to serve, but even better if you cover the sides (and possibly top) with toasted flaked almonds. 

Singapore Sling

There are two things close to the heart of all Singaporians: shopping and eating.  They embrace both with passion.  I've never seen such a concentration of shopping malls and the choice of dining options is fantastic.   Originally known as the Lion City of Singa Pura the visionary Sir Stamford Raffles founded Singapore in 1819 as the perfect trading port in Asia Pacific when he was tasked with developing such a location for the East India Company.  Modern Singapore has much to thank him for.  The Government's ongoing heavy investment ensures that Singapore is as much of a force to be reckoned with in the high-rise, high-tech 21st century as it was nearly 200 years ago.  Having just returned from  experiencing all the new developments I was amazed at the vibrant, dynamic, exciting city that Singapore has become. Enjoying a Singapore Sling at the iconic Raffles Hotel is still on the "must do" list but you're spoilt for choice for other memorable experiences.  From taking in the views from Marina Bay Sands Sky Garden 200m high perched like a grounded spaceship on top of three tower blocks, to exploring Resorts World Sentosa with Universal Studios, Singapore deserves more than a short stopover.  Often known as "Asia Lite" (Asia without the grime, traffic and stomach upsets, plus English is spoken everywhere), Singapore is clean, safe and a pleasure to stay.  Luxury hotels such as the fabulous Shangri-La offer great value for money and the tropical climate means it's hot (and humid) all year round.  I'm looking forward to returning...

Wild Honey

Lured by good reviews of Anthony Demetre's cooking and Wild Honey's delectable name, Iunch at the restaurant in St George Street, Mayfair, London W1, was worth persevering against dire traffic congestion and rain to get to.  Buzzing and welcoming although at full capacity I soon relaxed into the convivial atmosphere despite my frazzled state on arrival.  Being seriously late it seemed wise to go straight to the main course and I thoroughly enjoyed my choice of sea bass with razor clams and trompette mushrooms.  In particular the razor clams were a revelation with their unexpectedly smooth texture and so delicious.  The Sommelier recommended a wonderful dry but fruity Spanish wine - Albarino O Rosal, Terras Ganda, Rias Baixas, Galicia.  Dessert went by the wayside in a bid to recoup time but I did succumb to the selection of chocolates to have with my coffee.  These were tiny but delicious plain truffles and slithers of candied orange peel in dark chocolate.  Rich and strong the flavours were an ideal sweet note to finish with.  Wild Honey is definitely a place I'd return to, hopefully next time on a more leisurely basis to try the excellent value set price three course menu at £19.95 (the same price as my main course alone).  The only aspect which lets the experience down is the fact the tables are far too close together making neighbouring diners seem loud and invasive.  I don't want to be audience to other peoples' conversations, wanting instead to enjoy the company at my own table and would much prefer extra space even if it means putting the prices up to compensate for less covers.  I now know to request a side booth...

Avant-garde Gastronomy in Bethnal Green, London

Viajante, or "traveller" in Portuguese certainly has a pioneering spirit and as a trendy restaurant in the unexpected location of the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green accurately describes itself as a "mecca for food-lovers".  I was intrigued and loved experiencing the whole succession of surprise dishes on the tasting menu.  Viajante was the perfect place to catch up with a dear friend over an extravagant lunch, who equally delighted in the theatre of what we were eating.  Dispensing with the need to choose from a menu, Viajante simplifies the process in asking only whether you would like the three or six course tasting menu and if you have any allergies.  Feeling indulgent we went for the full house and were off to a good start with an amazing "Thai explosion" appetiser before the first course arrived.  This concentrated burst of flavour singing of kaffir lime certainly kicked the taste buds into shape.  Artisan bread rolls and two types of butter appeared and the performance was well underway.  Even though six courses may seem over the top for lunch they were perfectly proportioned and not excessive.  The first course of scallops with carrot, mustard and watercress was light and fresh before the second course of charred leeks, hazelnuts and milk skin.  Not my favourite course as milk skin is too reminiscent of vast vats of congealed, coloured custard endured during school lunches, the thought of which still turns my stomach to this day.  Perhaps it's innovative and maybe some people love the texture of dairy skin, but not for me.  The braised salmon and fried aubergine took my mind off it but was bettered by the fourth course seabass toast with garlic kale.  A couple of choice morsels of duck with beetroot and pistachio followed before the pre-dessert frozen maple pannacotta and shiso granite with green apple which was tangy and cleansing before the main dessert of sea buckthorn with burnt meringue and yoghurt sorbet.  A modern art installation in it's own right.  Petit fours were fabulous concentrations of flavour, particularly the mandarin marshmallow, as too the salted caramel truffle.  If you feel like gastronomic travelling through a menu of taste sensations, Viajante is worth the journey.  Next time I'll try the recommended wines, but on this occasion restrained myself to an uplifting glass of champagne.  Guests are well taken care of, the service is superb and there are not many restaurants where the chef shakes your hand as you leave.  Nuno Mendes grew up in Portugal, trained at the California Culinary Academy, had stints at Jean Georges in New York City, the Coyote Cafe in Sante Fe and El Bulli in Roses.  With a roll call like that you know you're in for a treat. 

A Gourmet Treat

Chic and stylish my first impressions on arriving at Hakkasan in Bruton Street, Mayfair, central London, felt as if I was entering a smart restaurant on the Bund in Shanghai, China.  Since reading AA Gill's enthusiastic and complimentary review just recently in the Sunday Times I was tempted to try this fabulous Chinese restaurant and went for lunch with a dear friend who knows and loves the Far East too. The calming scent of jasmine incense wafting through the air welcomes you and the short walk along dark slate / stone clad walls to the dining area reassures that you've made a good choice.  Abundant orchids and wonderfully professional staff complete the scene and as the menus are presented that sense of anticipation sets in.  The restaurant decor is elegantly simple and very appealing, especially the atmospheric and spacious basement with wonderful Chinese style wooden screens dividing the space.  The menu is seriously tempting but somehow we didn't manage to go beyond the "small eats" wanting to try so many of those and they are ideal for sharing.  The salt and pepper squid with a chilli kick, generously filled Shanghai dumplings, delicious crispy duck rolls and dim sum selection were all excellent.  The scallop shumai wins my prize for the best dim sum I've ever tried.  A glass of 2009 Urban Riesling St.Urbans-Hof Mosel was the perfect accompaniment before progressing to the selection of petits fours I ordered to go with my Oolong blue tea.  This was a modern art installation in it's own right - three glass containers stacked on top of each other, containing frozen strawberry granita alongside coffee water ice, on which were nestled two miniature ice cream cones (mango and chocolate), the next layer down offered truffles and the base layer had mouthful size friandises.  A decadent treat for a Monday lunchtime and one that will definitely be repeated at the earliest opportunity.

Happy New Year!

Following December's festive season celebrated with family and friends the end of the old year and start of the new brings a welcome chance for reflection and positive change.  The Winter Solstice is behind us and the northern hemisphere gradually continues the cycle towards the light.  An ideal time of year to consider your hopes and dreams as well as take steps toward making them happen.  Dark days may seem long but the years are short.  One of the Christmas films I enjoyed watching was Mr Magorium's Wonder Emporium starring Dustin Hoffman with the memorable line: "Life is an occasion, rise to it".  Certainly impactful it makes you want to be the best that you can be. 

So my advice for 2011, which I will endeavour to follow personally, is to open your mind, go somewhere new, try something you've always wanted to do but never have, take a different route on a regular journey, cook a dish you've never tried before, have fun.  Appreciate this moment, appreciate this day, relax and be happy.