Peruvian Adventure

Machu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu

Dodging the fans waiting outside the Miraflores Hotel I stayed at in Lima, they were there to see Paul McCartney but I was in Peru to fulfil a childhood dream of going to Machu Picchu, the 'lost city of the Incas'. Arriving in Lima via Madrid (there are no direct flights from the UK) was a good place to start and a Pisco Sour seemed the order of the day. This national drink is totally delicious but the alcohol content combined with the altitude packs a punch.  The first and best one I tried, at the trendy boutique Hotel B in Barranco, soon explained why there was so much laughter and loud voices at the bar - even my writing was slurring as I jotted in my journal to remind myself that I'd ordered grilled garlic prawns, Sudado (fish of the day) in a ginger and herb broth, and for dessert lucma ice cream made from a fruit that looks like yellow avocado. 

Lima is a culinary hotspot and although I wasn't able to secure a table at the famed Gaston y Astrid restaurant, I suspect the 32 course tasting menu would have been quite a marathon.  The setting is charming though, in a 1920's style property in the San Isidro area which was originally farmland before Lima morphed into a huge international city.  Home to an impressive Cathedral; San Francisco Monastery; the first library to have opened in the Americas; and location of the first university founded in the mid-1500's; plus a well worthwhile trip to Mari Solari's textiles and artefacts gallery, a couple of days in Lima was ideal before I set off on more strenuous adventures. 

A short flight took me to Cusco 3,330 meters (10,900ft) above sea level, where my gracious and knowledgeable guide, Luis, met me at the airport.  En route to the fabulous Rio Sagrado Hotel we stopped in Pisac to explore the market.  The Sacred Valley is stunning with fertile soil producing two crops per year, wonderfully soft air and a beautiful energy, I knew I was in a special place.  The Incas were incredibly accomplished, worshipping the earth, sky, sun, moon and honouring Pacha Mama, or 'Mother Earth' in all aspects of their life.  Even today the Peruvian equivalent to toasting 'Cheers' is 'Pacha Mama' accompanied by dipping your finger into your drink then flicking onto the ground and in doing so acknowledging and thanking the cycle of nature.

I'd missed Richard Gere who had previously stayed at the Rio Sagrado, but could understand why he enjoyed being there so much.  With a verdant setting by the swiftly flowing river and hummingbirds flying around the foliage, it felt like paradise on earth.  I resisted sampling 'cuy' or guinea pig in favour of trying the Panquitas traditional creamy corn and Parea cheese seared and served with huancaina sauce served with a 'KM zero' salad.  At such high altitude it was essential to rest and pace things.  Luis showed me around Ollantaytambo - site of one of the great Inca fortresses and also Chinchero, an Andean village with a heritage of weaving, but the highlight of my trip was to reach Machu Picchu.  Opting for the comfortable Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes and then obligatory bus transfer along the switchback roads to Machu Picchu ('Old Mountain' in the Quechua language of the Incas) I had arrived.  The indifferent weather of the past few days had transformed into blue skies and sun.  

No one exactly knows the true origins why the Incas built, occupied and abandoned Machu Picchu in the mid -16th century, but it was a unique place and held a very important role in Inca history.  Myths abound and Hiram Bingham, the Yale graduate who re-discovered the site in 1911, was aware of..." the spiritual purpose of this place...the healing and peace which is the signature of Machu Picchu." I was fortunate to stay at Sanctuary Lodge adjacent to the main entrance and with an early start experienced sunrise.  Cloud and mist initially shrouded the site but dispersed as brightness shone through and the sun enveloped Machu Picchu in a re-energising new day's light.  Truly a 'wow' moment, the experience was a-m-a-z-i-n-g.  Later on I also climbed Huayana Picchu - a really strenuous additional 1200 feet above Machu Picchu which was literally breath-taking but gave even more incredible views.

For my return journey to Cusco I took the smart Orient-Express train for a spirited evening of music and dinner and then checked in to the tranquil Palacio Nazarenas - originally a convent built on the site where two Inca ceremonial routes met. During my few days in Cusco I explored the vibrant central market, looked around the Cathedral, saw the Sacsayhuaman Inca ruins and sampled ceviche - the marinated raw fish national dish of Peru, at the acclaimed El Tupay restaurant of the neighbouring Monasterio hotel.

The last stage of my journey involved a flight to Juliaca for the transfer to Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.  Hotel Titilaca was the best base for trips to see the famed Uros floating islands and Tequile Island where the men knit and the women weave.  Such high altitudes are challenging and even drinking a couple of cups of coca tea every morning did not completely avoid the inevitable sinus pressure.  A small inconvenience though for the experience of being in such an incredible part of the world.  There is so much more to see of Peru from Colca Canyon home of the condors, to delving into the Amazon rainforest, or flying over the Nazca lines.  It's always good to have reasons to return...

Beguiling Brussels

Belgium - home of Hercule Poirot; Herves Adventures of Tin Tin; the European Parliament; and beer to name just a few associations, not least of which is chocolate.  Travelling to Brussels on business has given me some long overdue blog inspiration.  Never having been to the Belgian capital city before I took an earlier Eurostar than necessary to have a few hours exploring, although being a Monday all museums were closed.  Consequently my experiences were centred on the impressive Grand Place, one of Europe's finest historical squares surrounded by ornately decorated guild houses.  Not far from the central square the famous Manneken Pis is synonymous with Brussels and quite a small, jaunty little fellow in reality.  Dating back to 1451 the current statue has been in place since 1619.  I wouldn't usually make a detour to go and see a model of a young boy relieving himself into a small pool, but have to say this attraction is better in reality than the commercial exploitation does justice to.

Apart from indulging in some serious chocolate purchases at the wonderful boutiques, a highlight of my day was to go to Maison Dandoy on the aptly named Rue au Beurre, which has been making delicious 'spectaculoos speculoos' biscuits and serving waffles made from a traditional family recipe since 1829. I chose the Liege waffle which is oval in shape, as opposed to the Belgian waffle which is rectangular and more crunchy.  The walls of the upstairs tea room are decorated with old wooden moulds and the menu quotes:  "Life is for surprise kisses, full moon swims and Dandoy biscuits".  Even if the first two are in short supply, I can attest to the delights of the Dandoy baking.

When I arrived at the tea room I was the only person there but within moments 18 Japanese ladies had filled the tables.  Starting of so sedately with subdued chatter it only took a matter of minutes before they were buoyed by such a sugar high, their loud talking across the floor, girlish giggling and excitement was joyous to witness.  Such simple pleasures as eating wonderful waffles with chocolate sauce and ice cream gave huge enjoyment.  I couldn't understand a word apart from repeated 'hi' or yes, but they were having genuine fun and it was delightful.  I'm sure Brussels has many cultural sights to see, but this for me was a charming encounter.  I highly recommend a visit to Maison Dandoy, (of which there are other branches in the city) whether with or without a party of Japanese tourists.

Out of Africa

'Mind the Gap' is an announcement I most associate with taking the tube in London, but had a whole new meaning on the trip I've just completed to Zambia and Botswana.  Here in the depths of the African bush, 'mind the gap' was a warning to take care stepping onto whatever river craft was providing your method of transport and not to fall in to the mighty Zambesi, home to hippos and crocodiles.  Now I shall smile every time I'm on the London underground comparing this totally urban experience to the complete opposite of being in the African bush.

2013 marks the bicentenary of Dr David Lingstone's birth and although the now famous Victoria Falls were not brought to the wider world's attention until this Scottish missionary, doctor and explorer discovered them, they were infact well known to the indiginous tribes of the area for a long time prior.  Named after Queen Victoria the falls were originally called Mosi-oa Tunya or 'the Smoke that Thunders' by the Kololo tribe in the 1800's to describe the massive volume of falling water creating huge spray. One of the wonders of the world, visiting Victoria Falls when the water is high means being totally drenched and pounded with water spray so strong it's like having intense power hoses aimed at you from every direction.  The plastic ponchos optimistically handed out in advance are no more effective than wearing a paper coat would be.  It's hilarious. The water assaults you from every direction with such a force you can understand why the majority of visitors take their shoes off to walk through the torrents rather than end up totally saturated.

I was very fortunate to be part of a small group on a special trip to experience the best of the region, starting with the joy of travelling Virgin Upper Class from Heathrow to Johannesburg with the wonderful flat bed service, connecting with an onward flight to Livingstone airport neighbouring the falls and staying at the Royal Livingstone resort.  There's something deeply decadent about enjoying creature comforts in total luxury when located in the African bush.  Definitely my favourite way to travel.  We kayaked on the Zambesi; visited a local school; watched zebra from close proximity; and then crossed the border into Botswana for a day's incredible game drive to Chobe National Park with the most magical site of herds of elephant; before transferring to the wonderful Royal Chundu Zambesi River Lodge.  I tried fishing for the first time and enjoyed visiting a neighbouring village, interspersed with the obligatory sundowner gin and tonic and bird watching the most colourful and exotic feathered friends I have ever seen.  Somehow being in Africa expands your senses and a few days of such inspiring nature were a wonderful boost before returning to the snow and grey skies of England.  Birds have the right idea, I need to migrate every Winter myself and return to the UK in late Spring.

Miracle of Mindfulness

Guilty for not updating my blog for the past few weeks and now trying to decide where best to start covering all my recent travels reminded me of salient lessons evident everywhere I've just been in South East Asia.  'Live in the moment'.  'Above all enjoy your life'. 'Give whatever you may be doing your full attention'.  My adventure began in Bagkok, capital of Thailand and hectic urban mass.  The charm still exists, although it's best to know where to look.  One of my favourite places is the wonderful Jim Thomson House, now a welcoming museum honouring the life of this fascinating American.  Originally trained as an architect he single-handedly resurrected the Thai silk industry before disappearing without a trace whilst walking in the Cameron Highlands back in the 1960's, whilst on holiday in Malaysia.  Bangkok's Grand Palace with it's impressive Emerald Buddha is not to be missed and for bargain hunters the weekend Chatuchak weekend market is a definite highlight, but for pure pleasure nothing beats a relaxing dinner on the riverside at the iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel.  One of those essential 'bucket list' experiences, but preferably repeated frequently.  

After a few days at the renowned Chiva Som spa at Hua Hin on the east coast, my journey then involved a two hour flight from Bangkok airport to Luang Prabang, originally the ancient capital of Laos.  Now a UNESCO world heritage city the 33 temples or wats and 111 historic Lao-French buildings which were noted for restoration have meant that this relatively small location is a delightful concentration of Lao culture.  Bicycles are a popular way to explore, as are the reliable tuk-tuks (which I would never advise anyone taking in Bangkok - not just for the dense traffic with associated fumes, but for the frequent tourist scams).  I had long wanted to experience Luang Prabang and it did not disappoint.  Watching the monks collecting their morning alms at dawn (food to last them that day), was very humbling in the knowledge they then shared their supplies with those less fortunate.  The monks themselves are detached from any material ownership and lead very simple but highly spiritual lives, worshiping in inspiring surroundings.  The Vat Xieng Thong temple as shown in my photo dates back to the 16th century and is now being freshly gilded.  Further to the centre of town the Royal Palace Museum gives an insight to the city's imperial past, but as an unexpected bonus on my visit there was a photography exhibition called 'The Floating Buddha' which captured beautifully the essence of this special place.  I did not venture on the murky Mekong river to explore further into the countryside as I felt deeply content immersed in the relaxed atmosphere of Luang Prabang, the jewel of Laos.  Definitely a place to live in the moment and enjoy simple pleasures to delight the senses, from the heady perfume of the Frangipani flowers (Lao's national flower) to a delicious cup of Lao grown coffee at the delightful Cafe Ban Vat Sene..

Happy New Year 2013!

The traditional sentiment of 'Out with the old and in with the new' is a wonderful fresh start to January.  Inspired by the first blue skies in ages I went for a walk on the beautiful East Wittering beach in West Sussex, not realising how crowded it would be.  January 1st was the scheduled 'Big Dip' for those hardy souls prepared to brave the cold and churning sea for an event organised by the local scouts.  Totally unaware of this happening I thankfully arrived just after it finished at lunchtime when the hoardes were leaving the beach.  I've never seen so many people there, even on the hottest of Summer weekends.  My plan to enjoy the solace of being at the coast was somewhat scuppered, but I managed to find a moment of calm to take the photo looking across to the Isle of Wight.

I don't believe in making new year resolutions which are rarely kept, but the concept of aspirations is far more appealing.  Take the opportunity to consider desired goals and achievements, then set out to make them happen.  During mid-Winter when there's a tendency to simply want to hibernate and life may seem a struggle, now's the time to boost self motivation and be thankful for all the blessings in our lives.  If you're feeling in the doldrums make a daily habit of writing down 10 things you're grateful for.  Keep a running list and you'll be surprised at how much good there is.  Focus on the positive and it truly increases.  So whether it's the fact you enjoy being able to walk, see, taste, breathe or enjoy the beauty of nature, the stars, seeing birds in flight or raindrops like diamonds on branches, stop and savour the moment.  Remember every day is a gift, that's why it's called the present.

Wishing you a very happy 2013, full of peace, joy and good health.

Season's Greetings

Christmas comes but once a year and when it comes it brings good cheer...as the rhyme goes.  This is certainly a wonderful season to enjoy traditions old and new, even though the bitterly cold weather in England is more inspiring towards hibernating and to stay indoors.  The end of the year always brings that sense of needing to shed the old in order to make way for the new.  These are turbulent times, virtually everyone I know dealing with varying challenges and there's a general sense of stress in the air, with people constantly rushing, intolerant drivers, pushy customers and queues, all testing our patience.  My advice is simply just breathe.  Breathe deeply.  Let it go.

Be true to yourself, whatever testing circumstances you may be going through.  I've made my chosen charity donations and find it humbling to consider those with so much less. Give thanks for your own abundance.  Enjoy some simple pleasures whether taking the time to decorate your home for Christmas, savour the aroma of mince pies freshly baking and listen to some festive music.  See the light.  Amidst all the busyness take a moment to think about what makes you happy and make sure you weave that reality into your day.  Whilst wrapping your gifts remember that life is the most precious gift of all.  Tell those you love what they mean to you.  Treat yourself with kindness.  Let's celebrate the reason for the season and spread some joy to the world!

Wishing you and yours a very happy Christmas, full of peace and goodwill.

Autumn in Paris

True to the lyrics of the Cole Porter song I love Paris at any time of the year but to me Spring and Autumn are best. Being there at the end of October was particularly wonderful for so many reasons and above all whom I was with.  To share some inspirations of this fabulous city here are a few of my favourite things: the best croissant and individual jugs of delicious coffee for breakfast at Cafe de Flore whilst immersed in the total 'Frenchness' and history-infused atmosphere; walking along the elegant streets pondering on the lives of residents behind the smart doors and ornate ironwork balconies; that early morning anticipation of the new day in such an appealing capital lifting you up with it's energy; delectable displays at the Boulevard Raspail produce market requiring great resistance to buy ingredients for cooking when there's no home kitchen locally to return to; (I wonder if Ina Garten ever rents her apartment...what a dream that would be); beautiful fashion boutiques; chic displays at Bon Marche; impromtu street jazz providing the quintessential Saint-Germain vibe; perfectly chilled champagne...

Keeping to the Paris theme I'd highly recommend the recently released film "The Untouchables" based on a true story.  In French with English sub-titles the wry sense of humour is very entertaining and it's uncanny how the lead, Francois Cluzet, is truly a French Dustin Hoffman.  The unlikely story of a widowed millionaire paraplegic, result of a paragliding accident, plus his ex-con carer, has real character in the respect and fondness they develop for each other.  Watching it prior to my own Paris adventure was a great way of getting back into the language.

Last but not least I've just finished reading the New York Times best-seller book "Lunch in Paris" by Elizabeth Bard, equally charming this romance with recipes merges the American 'just do it' attitude with French joie de vivre.  A wonderful insight into one couple's happy ever after.  Food for the soul...