Gordon in Vietnam

Refreshing pomelo salad with prawns; moorish spring rolls stuffed with wood ear mushrooms and minced pork; crispy pancakes made with rice flour filled with bean shoots, shredded chicken, coriander, mint, plus lemon basil; and succulent grilled tenderloin of beef with peanut sauce, were some of the memorable dishes I experienced whilst travelling in Vietnam.  Unfortunately Gordon Ramsey didn't fare so well on his second Great Escapes programme, which was as stomach churning as last week's episode on Cambodia.  His description of the Vietnamese being fearless foodies with the approach "if it moves, eat it" was well documented in the hour-long insight to extreme eating, but thankfully there is also a far more appealing side to the delicacies of Vietnamese cuisine.  Snake seven ways probably makes for better television, especially with Gordon downing the still beating heart in a shot of alcohol.  Personally I don't subscribe to torturous dining.  My mind and digestion couldn't cope with it, so hats off to Gordon in the line of duty.  He must have a cast iron constitution.  At least he admitted to his indoctrination to Vietnamese food as being challenging, probably his understatement of the year.  From watching ducks slaughtered by a determined chef nicknamed Mrs Duck, whom amusingly Gordon seemed scared of, to seeing a live mountain rat on display for restaurant diners to choose, the "no waste" culture is often repulsive to Western ways.  Dog is widely eaten in the north of Vietnam (not in the south), yet no reference was made to there not being any dogs around Hanoi - perhaps a distress too far for canine pet loving British sensitivities.  Shock inducing reactions aside don't be put off going to Vietnam for fear of not enjoying the food.  There is a wonderful choice of totally palatable, delicious dishes to discover and the best coffee I've ever tasted, so be adventurous!

Cooking in Cambodia

With more expletives than adjectives Gordon Ramsey's new Channel 4 television series featuring his culinary journey through southeast Asia was difficult to stomach, but the reality is Cambodia is a fascinating country. (His focus for the first instalment screened at 9pm on Monday 9th May).  Profanities aside the programme gave a vivid insight to traditional subsistence cooking from stuffed frogs to deep fried Tarantula spiders. Before going to Cambodia myself a couple of years ago I'd never heard of Khmer cuisine, but here is a centuries old culture with a wealth of delicious flavours waiting to be explored (thankfully with more acceptable ingredients).   I stayed in the chic surroundings of a beautiful boutique hotel in the centre of Siem Reap.  The de la Paix was the perfect location for exploring the stunning UNESCO world heritage site of the temples at Angkor, as well as close proximity to the colourful market and renowned Foreign & Colonial Club or FCC as it's known, complete with ceiling fans and whiff of a gin and tonic fuelled past.  At the de la Paix's renowned Meric restaurant, experimenting with so many flavour combinations I'd never had before from Banana Blossom Salad, to Amok fish (fragrantly spiced white fish in a light sauce served in a piece of hollow bamboo) , to a shot glass of coconut rice sago with an egg cup of palm sugar juice, the gastronomic delights were sensational.  With a backdrop of wonderful architecture, a balmy evening and light breeze perfumed with frangipani blooms, I look forward to returning and experiencing more of this fabulous destination.  Thank you to Gordon for inspiring me to re-visit this unsung gem.

In Praise of Pesto

Purists may argue that true Pesto should only ever be made from basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan and olive oil.  However, I happen to think pesto is the most wonderful concept that lends itself to many guises.  Having just looked the word up in my Italian dictionary I've learnt it simply means "pounded".  Even more reason for some culinary license.  Inspired by my local farmers' market in Arundel last Saturday I bought a bunch of wild garlic leaves to transform into a Spring Pesto which seemed the perfect lunch to enjoy on such a beautiful day (and to celebrate the freedom of working from home).  In the Magimix I blitzed:

100g wild garlic leaves and stems (washed)
2 shallots (peeled) 
100ml olive oil (I used fruity extra virgin, but whatever your preference)
50g unroasted nuts (I had peanuts and Brazils to hand)

Once this was all combined I stirred in 50g grated Parmesan, salt and pepper to taste and a little more olive oil.  All this took less time than the 10 minutes to cook the spelt spaghetti to toss with the pesto.  The quantity made was enough for four portions.  Any remaining will freeze perfectly or it keeps well in an airtight container in the fridge for a few days (topped with a little extra oil to seal it).

Making the most of this idyllic weather we are currently blessed with in the south of England I couldn't resist having my lunch in the garden with a glass of chilled white wine.  It felt totally indulgent but utterly wonderful and true to my ethos that life is for living.  As the Italians would say, Buon Appetito!

Mothering Sunday

Inspired to bake a cake for my Mum on Mother's Day I decided to try my hand at her all time favourite, Battenburg.  Quickly realising I was not keen on fiddling around making half the mixture synthetically coloured pink, I also didn't find a recipe I was happy with.  They all seemed to be for plain sponge covered in marzipan.  I realised I wasn't striving to bake a traditional Battenburg after all but wanted to create an almond cake full of natural flavour and not overly sweet which Battenburg's always seem to be.  Blessed with an extensive cookery book collection and the wonders of the internet I still couldn't find the recipe I was hoping for so made one up based on inspiration from various sources to create what I'd been thinking about.  In case you'd like to give it a go the recipe for my almond cake is below.  As with all baking the most essential and invisible ingredient is love.  To miss this out means the cake will never taste as good, so bake in good spirits and be happy.  I used a heart shape tin as I had one I'd never used in my kitchen cupboard and now seemed the ideal time, but any shape 8" or 9" tin would be fine (just make sure the tin is lined with Bakewell paper to guarantee the cake turns out easily).  Also pre-heat your oven to 190 degrees Centigrade:

6 large eggs (separated into whites and yolks in two different bowls)
200g whole almonds (grind in a food processor when you need them for a far better result than packet ground almonds which are often dry and have lost their flavour)
150g spelt flour (or plain white flour)
2 teaspoons baking powder
200g caster sugar
1 teaspoon natural almond extract
(Yes, that's right there's no fat in this recipe, but trust me, it works)

Filling - one 10oz / 254g  jar of St Dalfour apricot conserve (reserve two dessert spoons for the topping).  This wonderful French fruit spread is sugar free and a pure fruit taste, but apricot jam works well if this is what you have to hand.

Topping - one 250g tub of mascarpone into which you beat the remaining jam, a tablespoon of sieved icing sugar and half a teaspoon of almond extract. 

For the cake mixture first whisk the egg whites by themselves until stiff.  In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until well blended.  Stir the ground almonds, flour and baking powder into the egg yolks and sugar then add the almond extract.  Once combined fold in one tablespoon of the whisked egg whites and when incorporated gently fold in the remaining whisked egg whites. Turn into the prepared tin and bake in the middle of the oven for approximately 35 minutes until golden brown and the surface of the cake springs back to the touch.  (After 20 minutes I needed to cover my tin with a sheet of silicone paper to stop the cake from browning too much - it's always worth checking).  Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin on a rack before turning out. 

Once cool cut the cake in half through the middle and spread the apricot layer on the base half before sandwiching the top back on.  Spread the mascarpone topping around the sides and top.  The almond cake is then ready to serve, but even better if you cover the sides (and possibly top) with toasted flaked almonds. 

Singapore Sling

There are two things close to the heart of all Singaporians: shopping and eating.  They embrace both with passion.  I've never seen such a concentration of shopping malls and the choice of dining options is fantastic.   Originally known as the Lion City of Singa Pura the visionary Sir Stamford Raffles founded Singapore in 1819 as the perfect trading port in Asia Pacific when he was tasked with developing such a location for the East India Company.  Modern Singapore has much to thank him for.  The Government's ongoing heavy investment ensures that Singapore is as much of a force to be reckoned with in the high-rise, high-tech 21st century as it was nearly 200 years ago.  Having just returned from  experiencing all the new developments I was amazed at the vibrant, dynamic, exciting city that Singapore has become. Enjoying a Singapore Sling at the iconic Raffles Hotel is still on the "must do" list but you're spoilt for choice for other memorable experiences.  From taking in the views from Marina Bay Sands Sky Garden 200m high perched like a grounded spaceship on top of three tower blocks, to exploring Resorts World Sentosa with Universal Studios, Singapore deserves more than a short stopover.  Often known as "Asia Lite" (Asia without the grime, traffic and stomach upsets, plus English is spoken everywhere), Singapore is clean, safe and a pleasure to stay.  Luxury hotels such as the fabulous Shangri-La offer great value for money and the tropical climate means it's hot (and humid) all year round.  I'm looking forward to returning...

Wild Honey

Lured by good reviews of Anthony Demetre's cooking and Wild Honey's delectable name, Iunch at the restaurant in St George Street, Mayfair, London W1, was worth persevering against dire traffic congestion and rain to get to.  Buzzing and welcoming although at full capacity I soon relaxed into the convivial atmosphere despite my frazzled state on arrival.  Being seriously late it seemed wise to go straight to the main course and I thoroughly enjoyed my choice of sea bass with razor clams and trompette mushrooms.  In particular the razor clams were a revelation with their unexpectedly smooth texture and so delicious.  The Sommelier recommended a wonderful dry but fruity Spanish wine - Albarino O Rosal, Terras Ganda, Rias Baixas, Galicia.  Dessert went by the wayside in a bid to recoup time but I did succumb to the selection of chocolates to have with my coffee.  These were tiny but delicious plain truffles and slithers of candied orange peel in dark chocolate.  Rich and strong the flavours were an ideal sweet note to finish with.  Wild Honey is definitely a place I'd return to, hopefully next time on a more leisurely basis to try the excellent value set price three course menu at £19.95 (the same price as my main course alone).  The only aspect which lets the experience down is the fact the tables are far too close together making neighbouring diners seem loud and invasive.  I don't want to be audience to other peoples' conversations, wanting instead to enjoy the company at my own table and would much prefer extra space even if it means putting the prices up to compensate for less covers.  I now know to request a side booth...

Avant-garde Gastronomy in Bethnal Green, London

Viajante, or "traveller" in Portuguese certainly has a pioneering spirit and as a trendy restaurant in the unexpected location of the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green accurately describes itself as a "mecca for food-lovers".  I was intrigued and loved experiencing the whole succession of surprise dishes on the tasting menu.  Viajante was the perfect place to catch up with a dear friend over an extravagant lunch, who equally delighted in the theatre of what we were eating.  Dispensing with the need to choose from a menu, Viajante simplifies the process in asking only whether you would like the three or six course tasting menu and if you have any allergies.  Feeling indulgent we went for the full house and were off to a good start with an amazing "Thai explosion" appetiser before the first course arrived.  This concentrated burst of flavour singing of kaffir lime certainly kicked the taste buds into shape.  Artisan bread rolls and two types of butter appeared and the performance was well underway.  Even though six courses may seem over the top for lunch they were perfectly proportioned and not excessive.  The first course of scallops with carrot, mustard and watercress was light and fresh before the second course of charred leeks, hazelnuts and milk skin.  Not my favourite course as milk skin is too reminiscent of vast vats of congealed, coloured custard endured during school lunches, the thought of which still turns my stomach to this day.  Perhaps it's innovative and maybe some people love the texture of dairy skin, but not for me.  The braised salmon and fried aubergine took my mind off it but was bettered by the fourth course seabass toast with garlic kale.  A couple of choice morsels of duck with beetroot and pistachio followed before the pre-dessert frozen maple pannacotta and shiso granite with green apple which was tangy and cleansing before the main dessert of sea buckthorn with burnt meringue and yoghurt sorbet.  A modern art installation in it's own right.  Petit fours were fabulous concentrations of flavour, particularly the mandarin marshmallow, as too the salted caramel truffle.  If you feel like gastronomic travelling through a menu of taste sensations, Viajante is worth the journey.  Next time I'll try the recommended wines, but on this occasion restrained myself to an uplifting glass of champagne.  Guests are well taken care of, the service is superb and there are not many restaurants where the chef shakes your hand as you leave.  Nuno Mendes grew up in Portugal, trained at the California Culinary Academy, had stints at Jean Georges in New York City, the Coyote Cafe in Sante Fe and El Bulli in Roses.  With a roll call like that you know you're in for a treat.