Avant-garde Gastronomy in Bethnal Green, London

Viajante, or "traveller" in Portuguese certainly has a pioneering spirit and as a trendy restaurant in the unexpected location of the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green accurately describes itself as a "mecca for food-lovers".  I was intrigued and loved experiencing the whole succession of surprise dishes on the tasting menu.  Viajante was the perfect place to catch up with a dear friend over an extravagant lunch, who equally delighted in the theatre of what we were eating.  Dispensing with the need to choose from a menu, Viajante simplifies the process in asking only whether you would like the three or six course tasting menu and if you have any allergies.  Feeling indulgent we went for the full house and were off to a good start with an amazing "Thai explosion" appetiser before the first course arrived.  This concentrated burst of flavour singing of kaffir lime certainly kicked the taste buds into shape.  Artisan bread rolls and two types of butter appeared and the performance was well underway.  Even though six courses may seem over the top for lunch they were perfectly proportioned and not excessive.  The first course of scallops with carrot, mustard and watercress was light and fresh before the second course of charred leeks, hazelnuts and milk skin.  Not my favourite course as milk skin is too reminiscent of vast vats of congealed, coloured custard endured during school lunches, the thought of which still turns my stomach to this day.  Perhaps it's innovative and maybe some people love the texture of dairy skin, but not for me.  The braised salmon and fried aubergine took my mind off it but was bettered by the fourth course seabass toast with garlic kale.  A couple of choice morsels of duck with beetroot and pistachio followed before the pre-dessert frozen maple pannacotta and shiso granite with green apple which was tangy and cleansing before the main dessert of sea buckthorn with burnt meringue and yoghurt sorbet.  A modern art installation in it's own right.  Petit fours were fabulous concentrations of flavour, particularly the mandarin marshmallow, as too the salted caramel truffle.  If you feel like gastronomic travelling through a menu of taste sensations, Viajante is worth the journey.  Next time I'll try the recommended wines, but on this occasion restrained myself to an uplifting glass of champagne.  Guests are well taken care of, the service is superb and there are not many restaurants where the chef shakes your hand as you leave.  Nuno Mendes grew up in Portugal, trained at the California Culinary Academy, had stints at Jean Georges in New York City, the Coyote Cafe in Sante Fe and El Bulli in Roses.  With a roll call like that you know you're in for a treat.