Bali Time

Just a couple of weeks after an e-mail out of the blue from a friend in Australia I took a flight to Bali to meet for a spontaneous holiday and the chance to re-discover this unique place I last travelled to over 15 years ago.  Previously as a first time visitor I was struck by the special atmosphere, delicious cuisine and spiritual culture of the island.  I vowed to return and will again as Bali has that effect on you, once smitten you wouldn't want to give this magical place up, with it's soothing sounds of gamelan music, the warm air perfumed with frangipani flowers and the daily offerings graciously made to the many shrines and temples. Even though there has been widespread development and traffic congestion is often a problem, it is still possible to enjoy Bali's many charms and wonderful landscape.

Volcanic Mount Batur

The flight from Sydney is only five hours, but from London mine took 19 which didn't feel so long on the way out but certainly did on the way back.  It was all worth it though, for the beautiful weather, therapeutic spa treatments and wonderful food.  We started in Nusa Dua for a short stay relaxing at the beach, but were keen to move inland to Ubud, the artistic hub of Bali.

Ducks in the rice fields

My inspiration was Janet de Neefe's evocative book 'Fragrant Rice' about her 'continuing love affair with Bali, a tale of passion, marriage and food.'  Her insights to the ancient beliefs and rituals still followed in Bali, woven in with achievable recipes, provides a greater understanding of this enchanting island.  Top of my 'to do' list was to participate in one of her excellent cooking classes held at the charming Honeymoon Guesthouse in central Ubud. The Tuesday class starts with a visit to the market.

Learning about coconut palm sugar

Janet demonstrating Sambul Tuwung (Roasted eggplant sambal)

Ubud has particularly become victim of it's own success and the excess traffic here means roads are often at a standstill, but somehow drivers navigate their way through without stress and all in Bali time.  (Meaning it simply takes as long as it takes, you have to be patient and it helps to not wear a watch).  Zebra crossings are a notional idea and disciplined tourists who valiantly wait at one to cross the road soon realise it makes no difference.  Drivers beep their horns to warn you they're approaching, but don't stop for pedestrians.  Understandable really when hoards of people file constantly along the narrow pavements in single line like ants. 

Kelapa Muda - whole young coconut and the perfect refreshing drink on a hot day

The restaurant scene in Ubud is excellent and really warrants a longer stay to do justice to trying everywhere that appeals.  Whether stopping for a pick-me-up mint, lime and lemongrass iced tisane at Locavore to Go:

To a fabulous dinner at Hujan with really good wine (a rarity in Bali - both choice available and high cost due to the luxury import tax), there's no shortage of tempting options.  

As Janet beautifully writes in her book...'take time to nurture your soul' and although meant in the context of her wholesome recipes I think being in Bali is good for reconnecting to the joy of life which we so often forget in the business of Western living.  Simple pleasures such as honouring each day and the delight of finding a welcome offering at your door.

Culinary highs in Ravello

Being in Italy always thrills me with such an alluring culture, climate, lifestyle and particularly for the fabulous food and wines.  I've just returned from a wonderful trip to Rome and the Amalfi coast, where a true highlight was to experience the Mamma Agata Cooking and Wine School in Ravello.  Perched high on the cliffs with stunning sea views, spending a day there is a really special experience. 

From the moment Chiara greets you and you have a first taste of the delicious signature lemon cake with coffee on arrival, you just know you're in for a treat.  Light as air and infused with the essence of Amalfi's famous lemons, which you see growing in the terraced gardens, the cake is stunning in it's simplicity.

The day's cooking demonstrations in the house kitchen are very leisurely and informative with plenty of tastings along the way, culminating in a wonderful lunch served on the covered terrace, with wine produced from the family vineyard.

Chiara, Mamma Agata's daughter is a fabulous host, and the day flows beautifully from Mamma Agata's cooking demonstrations in the morning, (making Parmigiana de Melanzane above) to Gennaro, Chiara's husband, taking over for the rest of the programme including Spaghetti del Contadino, or 'farmer's spaghetti' below.  They all share a deep passion for cooking, keeping ingredients simple, real and seasonal and that all elusive element of love is clearly apparent in all the dishes prepared.

A further pasta dish of Pappardelle con peperoni e salsicca (sausage and red pepper pasta), then Mamma Agata's famous Lemon Chicken (Pollo al limone) served with a green salad completed the lunch, before a final slice of the delectable Dolce al Limone (adored by Humphrey Bogart when Mamma Agata used to cook at Villa Civita).

Having bought the delightful Mamma Agata cookery book and fluted cake tin perfect for recreating the lemon cake at home, I am now all set to enjoy many more tastes of 'The Hidden Treasure' myself, along with priceless memories of a unique day.

Australian Food Adventure

Ever since my first visit to Australia over 25 years ago I have loved the culinary scene there.  From those early days of trying ingredients I'd never heard of before such as patty pan squash, to dishes including the Chinese and Malay inspired chilli-hot Laksa soup rich with prawns, coconut milk and lots of coriander, I always love to return to experience the latest food and wine trends.  After an absence of too long I have recently come back from a fabulous holiday mainly focused on Melbourne and Sydney, full of inspiration.  

Brunch at contemporary Kettle Black in South Melbourne has quickly become 'the' place to be (perhaps due to being featured in the February edition of the Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine) and was my first taste of chia pudding, which is now part of my breakfast repertoire at home.  Mine may not look as picture worthy as the delicious plate presented at Kettle Black, but thankfully the taste is the same complete with the finishing swirl of maple syrup. 

Having had a wonderful dinner prepared by Chef Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde fame, when he featured as part of a Taste Australia gala evening at Australia House in London, I was really keen to try a new casual dining outpost he is involved with - The Piggery at Burnham Beeches.  Situated in the scenic Dandenongs area outside of Melbourne, the quirky location is now a popular place for a light meal, coffee and cake.  My anticipation may have been too high as I was expecting something rather more special, but it's ideal for casual light dining and I chose the chicken platter which was impossible to visualise from the menu, before it was delivered to the table:

Back in South Yarra, Melbourne - a favourite area of mine as I lived there for a short while years ago, I had an impromptu delicious dinner at the successful Miss Chu's - a Vietnamese Hawker-style restaurant well worth waiting for a table at.  Coffee at the excellent Market Lane Coffee based at Prahran Market is a must too.  They source, roast and brew their carefully chosen beans and each single estate cup is delivered to your seat with a card giving the provenance of where the coffee came from.

A true gourmet highlight of my travels though was an amazing dinner I was fortunate to enjoy at Quay in Sydney, where chef Peter Gilmore creates the most fabulous menu.  The Quay website states their  "aim is to match the breathtaking harbour setting with quintessential modern Australian cuisine."  They truly do and I now see why they are Australia's most awarded restaurant.  I was so enamoured with the whole experience and being at a window table overlooking the Sydney Opera House, I didn't take any photos.  Thankfully though the incredible evening is etched on my memory.

May Your Rice Bowl Always Be Full

According to Chinese horoscope, lively, optimistic and progressive, the Year of the Monkey will be one in which anything can happen.  Arriving in Singapore just before Chinese New Year I enjoyed a visit to Chinatown to see all the preparations in place.  Stalls were laden with traditional oranges and fresh blossom, plus auspicious red and gold signs for display at home and for business, all symbolizing good luck, health, abundance, prosperity and happiness.

My main reason for staying in Singapore though was to explore Gardens by the Bay which had opened since the last time I was in town.  This impressive complex is on reclaimed land and the international master plan design competition originally held to seek world-class design ideas was won by two companies both from the UK.  The result is amazing, with an environmentally friendly landscape complete with futuristic super trees, lakes with a sophisticated water filtration system and two huge greenhouse structures - the Flower Dome:

and the Cloud Forest complete with waterfall:

Impressively Singapore is always evolving, whilst managing to celebrate it's heritage and has a fabulous arts scene with venues including the Esplande - with a distinctive roof line shaped like durian fruit; plus the renovated Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall; to the stunning new National Gallery which houses the world's largest collection of modern Southeast Asian art.  Apart from great displays, the gallery is also home to some wonderful places to eat.   I resisted the tempting selection at Plain Vanilla Bakery, as I went for lunch at Violet Oon's National Kitchen.  This delightful restaurant is based on Peranakan cooking and well worth a special trip.  With the menu blessing 'May your rice bowl always be full' the generous portions and traditional dishes provide a taste of Singapore no longer widely available.

The restaurant interior is a rich deep emerald colour, with dark wood, lavish chandeliers, traditional tiles, framed heritage pictures and large mirrors including ceiling panels, creating a stylish and welcoming space.  From the signature dishes the waiter recommended I chose to start with kuay pie tee - julienned bamboo shoots and turnip poached in a prawn bisque, topped with prawn, chilli sauce and fruit sauce in a 'top hat' which were very moorish.

For the main course I savoured chicken lemak made with coconut cream and kaffir lime, served with nasi lemak rice - jasmine steamed rice with coconut milk and just to ensure the coconut quotient was maximised I had Sayur Lodeh as a side dish - mixed vegetables with tempeh (bean curd) in a coconut gravy, mildly spiced.

This was definitely food to share, but being by myself I couldn't manage any dessert. My drink of choice was Violet's homemade Old Fashioned Ginger Beer described on the menu as 'fresh ginger root and lemon muddled and brewed till fizzy with spicy ginger bits'.  On a typically hot Singapore day who could resist the perfectly chilled and refreshing long drink, the perfect accompaniment to a wonderful lunch (or indeed at any time).  With the year of the Monkey heralding new beginnings I look forward to further inspiring travel experiences.

Gothenburg Winter Wonderland

There's something wonderfully uplifting in the busy pre-Christmas rush and that's the chance to take a long weekend trip and enjoy the delights of a traditional Christmas market. For me this usually means an annual trip to Germany.  I love the festive atmosphere; delicious seasonal delights to eat and drink; and the chance to choose some new tree decorations.  I've found though that some of the more popular German markets have become victim of their own success and chronic over-crowding at the main markets in Berlin last year inspired a re-think for 2015.  So this year for a complete change my destination was Sweden and the city of Gothenburg.  Gale force winds, followed by heavy rain and grey skies were not the cold crisp days with light snow I'd hoped for, but Gothenburg didn't disappoint and provided some gems to discover.  

My two favourite Christmas markets were both relatively small and in historical areas of the city - the Haga neighbourhood with it's traditional architecture is home to some quaint old cafes, ideal for the Swedish 'fika' or coffee break.  Cafe Kringlan is on the main street of Haga Nygata and was like stepping back in time. 

A popular choice from the tempting counter display and perfect with a coffee or hot chocolate, is the cinnamon bun with it's snowy dusting of sugar crystals.

With lots of tempting homemade treats on offer, the 'S' shaped saffron buns were a simple and light alternative with a distinctive saffron taste. Both ideal options for a sustaining morning break.

Kronhuset Christmas Market was larger than the Haga one (which was only really a few stalls on one street, but with some interesting small shops to browse along the way).  Incorporating one of the oldest buildings in Gothenburg built in the 1650's, Kronhuset had a good range of interesting crafts, along with an emporium packed with traditional sweets and chocolate.  The Swedes certainly seem to adore their sweet treats.

My weekend in Gothenburg also included a visit to Liseberg, the largest amusement park in Sweden.  Home to a variety of rides, an ice rink and different attractions, it is particularly ideal for children.  Then as an escape from the bad weather, the Nordstan shopping mall is vast and undercover, so was an ideal option for some retail therapy.  It was also my first experience of a 'Canto' group of singers, rather like a flash mob of dancers, but folk who looked as if they were just out shopping but all came together in seemingly spontaneous and delightful Christmas song.  

For me though, the overall highlight of Gothenburg was a fabulous lunch at Sjomagasinet.  This one-star Michelin restaurant is located on the waterfront and housed in an old warehouse dating back to 1775, originally used by the East India Company.  Here Owner Ulf Wagner has created a delightful wooden-beamed restaurant offering superb classic and innovative Swedish cooking based on his belief that ..."a meal has three dimensions - food, beverages and spiritual fulfillment with an ambiance that encompasses the total experience". With award-winning Head Chef Gustav Tragardh and a great in-house team, this is truly a destination restaurant worth the return flight to Gothenburg alone. 

 During December the traditional Christmas Buffet is an impressive selection of dishes, with a particular focus on seafood  - I'm now a total fan of herrings (which previously I never thought I liked) served with miniature dill potatoes and accompaniments such as beetroot salad; there was a delectable array of main courses including succulent frikadeller (Swedish meatballs, although I particularly liked the cod version) with side dishes including the iconic Jansonn's Temptation (a rich and creamy potato gratin made with onions and anchovies); along with a whole buffet dedicated to desserts.  Who could resist Gingerbread Tiramisu; mini Lingonberry cakes; a chocolate covered marzipan confection with glace fruits; macaroons and more besides.  The Swedish concept of 'largom' or 'just enough' tends to go out of the window with such an extensive feast.  

Christmas markets aside, Sjomagasinet is my number one recommendation for a visit to Gothenburg.  Be sure to try the house Aquavit called Nubbe, which is the perfect accompaniment to the seafood extravaganza.  Thankfully Sjomagasinet is a year-round gourmet treat and would be particularly amazing in the Summer with the option to dine outside (although without the festive buffet).  

As the Swedes would say: God Jul, or Happy Christmas!

Harvest time in Alsace

Staying in a converted ice-making plant was a first for me (the Hotel Regent Petite France), as was being in Strasbourg - official seat of the European Parliament; as well as the Council of Europe.  The short visit was at the end of my recent participation in the 'French Meeting Hub' bringing together industry professionals in the world of events, conferences, corporate and incentive travel.  Strasbourg was the culmination of an excellent itinerary which showcased the Alsace region.

Starting in picturesque Colmar was charming, with it's Hansel and Gretel style architecture. Dating back to 823AD and a city since the 1200's Colmar has much to explore and picturesque waterways flanked by timbered buildings with a profusion of window boxes overflowing with flowering geraniums.  Bartholdi,designer of the Statue of Liberty, came from Colmar and his house is now a museum celebrating his life and works.  On a more contemporary note and due to open soon the new Herzog & de Meuron designed extension to the Unterlinden Museum (housed originally in a Dominican convent) is just one of many good reasons to make a trip. 

Part of 'La route du vin' or wine road, the Autumn harvest is a wonderful time of year to experience the region.  A wealth of pretty medieval villages line the way, such as Eguisheim - voted 'the most preferred French village' in 2013 complete with storks' nests on the roof tops.  Even in October the weather was warm enough to not need a jacket.

Wherever you go in the area you're sure to find wonderful Kougelhopf - a speciality enriched bread with variations including dried fruit, to a more savoury one with olives and walnuts, particularly good to enjoy with a chilled glass of excellent local wine.  

In close proximity to Germany the pork culture is strong and traditional Choucroute / Sauerkraut is probably the most famous popular dish, but not for all tastes.

Pork aside I really enjoyed my taste of Alsace, which is such an easily accessible area.  Definitely one to consider whether for work or pleasure.

Snapshot of South Korea

Chef Judy Joo's wonderful television series Korean Food Made Simple had whetted my appetite to discover more of this fascinating country not just to experience the food, but the cities and countryside too.  Recently I was fortunate to enjoy a whistle-stop visit to see some highlights.  Starting in the capital and mega-city of Seoul, the sheer scale of the hugely built-up layout takes some orientation.  This cultural super power is firmly on the fashion map, hosting luxury brand product launches and riding the 'Hallyu' wave of being cool.  K-Pop music and television dramas are major industries, so too cosmetics.  Household brands such as Samsung and LG are known globally, but domestic shopping knows no bounds and is a national sport.  Koreans love to display their wealth as a badge of success.  Opening on 1st October the long awaited Four Seasons Hotel Seoul will provide a new level of luxury accommodation in the city. Seoul bridges extremes from the ancient to modern such as the impressive Zaha Hadid-designed futuristic DDP, or Dongdaemun Design Plaza.  

Culinary adventures include a traditional Korean barbeque - not in the sense of an outdoor grill over charcoal, but an indoor restaurant table-based barbeque where diners cook their own choice of meat and seafood.  Definitely a healthy option and accompanied by the ubiquitous kimchi, a fermented vegetable dish and much loved by Koreans as a daily staple.  Kimchi's appeal is growing beyond Korea due to it's nutritional value making it a 'super-food'.  Bibimbap was a favourite of mine, comprising steamed rice with various vegetables and beef mixed together with Korean chili paste.

A highlight experience of Seoul for me was the Jingwansa Temple, less than one hour from the city centre but a world apart.  Here a charming Bhuddist monk showed the group around whilst sharing soul-touching wisdom, the core message of which is 'Be Happy' and not to carry troubles and worries around with you - Let Them Go.  The main temple dates back to 1011 and with a backdrop of the Bukhansan National Park provided a serene and contemplative moment of calm in an otherwise hectic itinerary.

After Seoul a long road trip to Gyeongju was justified by the delicious walnut cakes I bought unexpectedly at a motorway coffee stop - freshly cooked and a specialty of the nut growing region.   

Gyeongju is often referred to as the 'museum without walls' as there are so many historical treasures designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.  My trip concluded in Bosun, South Korea's second largest city and situated on the south coast.  The famous Haeundae Beach area is hugely popular as a holiday destination.  In addition to being the world's 5th busiest port, Bosun hosts an International Film Festival; and annual International Fireworks Festival; as well as having the world's largest department store (not to mention some wonderful restaurants).

South Korea has so much to discover and its always good to have an excuse to go back somewhere.  Next time I'd like to experience Jeju, a volcanic island off the south west coast.