Bali Time

Just a couple of weeks after an e-mail out of the blue from a friend in Australia I took a flight to Bali to meet for a spontaneous holiday and the chance to re-discover this unique place I last travelled to over 15 years ago.  Previously as a first time visitor I was struck by the special atmosphere, delicious cuisine and spiritual culture of the island.  I vowed to return and will again as Bali has that effect on you, once smitten you wouldn't want to give this magical place up, with it's soothing sounds of gamelan music, the warm air perfumed with frangipani flowers and the daily offerings graciously made to the many shrines and temples. Even though there has been widespread development and traffic congestion is often a problem, it is still possible to enjoy Bali's many charms and wonderful landscape.

Volcanic Mount Batur

The flight from Sydney is only five hours, but from London mine took 19 which didn't feel so long on the way out but certainly did on the way back.  It was all worth it though, for the beautiful weather, therapeutic spa treatments and wonderful food.  We started in Nusa Dua for a short stay relaxing at the beach, but were keen to move inland to Ubud, the artistic hub of Bali.

Ducks in the rice fields

My inspiration was Janet de Neefe's evocative book 'Fragrant Rice' about her 'continuing love affair with Bali, a tale of passion, marriage and food.'  Her insights to the ancient beliefs and rituals still followed in Bali, woven in with achievable recipes, provides a greater understanding of this enchanting island.  Top of my 'to do' list was to participate in one of her excellent cooking classes held at the charming Honeymoon Guesthouse in central Ubud. The Tuesday class starts with a visit to the market.

Learning about coconut palm sugar

Janet demonstrating Sambul Tuwung (Roasted eggplant sambal)

Ubud has particularly become victim of it's own success and the excess traffic here means roads are often at a standstill, but somehow drivers navigate their way through without stress and all in Bali time.  (Meaning it simply takes as long as it takes, you have to be patient and it helps to not wear a watch).  Zebra crossings are a notional idea and disciplined tourists who valiantly wait at one to cross the road soon realise it makes no difference.  Drivers beep their horns to warn you they're approaching, but don't stop for pedestrians.  Understandable really when hoards of people file constantly along the narrow pavements in single line like ants. 

Kelapa Muda - whole young coconut and the perfect refreshing drink on a hot day

The restaurant scene in Ubud is excellent and really warrants a longer stay to do justice to trying everywhere that appeals.  Whether stopping for a pick-me-up mint, lime and lemongrass iced tisane at Locavore to Go:

To a fabulous dinner at Hujan with really good wine (a rarity in Bali - both choice available and high cost due to the luxury import tax), there's no shortage of tempting options.  

As Janet beautifully writes in her book...'take time to nurture your soul' and although meant in the context of her wholesome recipes I think being in Bali is good for reconnecting to the joy of life which we so often forget in the business of Western living.  Simple pleasures such as honouring each day and the delight of finding a welcome offering at your door.