Stuttgart Festive Sparkle

With impressive car museums featuring Mercedes-Benz and Porsche too, these are probably the main attractions for many visitors to Stuttgart, but in December the allure is definitely the wonderful Christmas markets.  With the accolade of 'one of the biggest and most beautiful Christmas Markets in Europe' I went for a short Advent break to discover this appealing German city.

An efficient train link connects Stuttgart airport to the city centre.  The journey only takes half an hour before you then emerge at the top end of the wide pedestrian-only shopping street.  Based on positive reviews and central location, I'd booked the charming and comfortable, luxury Althoff Hotel Am Schlossgarten, which was a wonderful haven with truly fabulous staff.

First stop a restorative coffee and poppy seed pastry (half) before exploring further afield.  

With the delicious smell of mulled wine in the air, browsing the stalls laden with tempting festive treats was such a pleasure.  I had to remember to keep looking up at the surrounding architecture, which really set the scene for the stalls.  There's an annual competition for the best decorated wooden cabin.  Pine branches, nativity scenes, baubles and angels abound.

Keen to enjoy traditional German cooking, dinner each evening was at wine cellar restaurants featuring rustic decor such as at the Stuttgarter Staeffele below and excellent wines from the region.  

Here, the signature house dish on the menu especially for Advent, is Spaetzle (little pasta like dumplings made with saffron) with fillet of beef / pork and a mushroom sauce.  Served with a side order of sauerkraut cabbage and a salad to lighten the hearty fare.  Wine is served in glass mugs and 'TL' or Trollinger Lemburger is the popular red wine.  Most wine produced in Germany is white, but the Baden-Wurttemberg region grows mainly red grapes.

Best of all was dessert and this apple fritter generously dusted with cinnamon sugar, served with homemade vanilla ice cream was the star of the show.

I'd like to think all the miles walked would burn off the calories, but a few days' indulgence was definitely a lovely experience.  With festive music, carols and mulled wine, shopping pre-Christmas in Stuttgart definitely provided a seasonal treat.  

Fine Dining in the New Forest

Originally named by William the Conqueror in 1079, the New Forest in Hampshire enjoys a wonderful location in the south of England.  With each season bringing the glory of nature's changing colours the area is a pleasure to visit at any time of year and particularly so in Autumn with all the beautiful foliage.  Since childhood I have been fortunate to make many trips to this lovely part of the country and have just returned from an overnight stay at the privately run four-star Careys Manor Hotel in Brockenhurst.  Relaxed and welcoming it's always a pleasure to be a guest there and I think the award-winning SenSpa has the best Thai therapists this side of Bangkok.  An authentic traditional Thai massage is worth the journey alone.  

A special highlight of my recent visit was to have dinner in Cambium, the fine dining restaurant with three AA rosettes, where Alistair Craig is Head Chef.  The setting is stylish and spacious, with decor inspired by the surrounding New Forest itself.  Alistair's cooking is described on the menu as using 'local ingredients in a worldly way' and presentation is an art form.  Working closely with passionate producers based within a close radius, ingredients in the dishes I chose included rabbit served as a light terrine with a tarragon granita and grilled pineapple, followed by delicious cod with saffron potatoes and sea-fresh samphire.  My dessert was a moreish Leche frita with apple, blackberry and served with cinnamon ice cream.  The Sommelier ensured ideal wine pairings accompanied each course. 

As well as championing the best of New Forest produce, the choice of pre-dinner drinks in the bar includes Pothecary gin made in Dorset with distinctive botanicals featuring lavender and mulberries along with the more expected juniper and lemon.  Fittingly the New Forest Food & Drink Festival runs from 31st October - 6th November to showcase the fabulous variety of delectable treats in the region.  Perhaps a return trip to Careys Manor is in order sooner than expected...

Bali Time

Just a couple of weeks after an e-mail out of the blue from a friend in Australia I took a flight to Bali to meet for a spontaneous holiday and the chance to re-discover this unique place I last travelled to over 15 years ago.  Previously as a first time visitor I was struck by the special atmosphere, delicious cuisine and spiritual culture of the island.  I vowed to return and will again as Bali has that effect on you, once smitten you wouldn't want to give this magical place up, with it's soothing sounds of gamelan music, the warm air perfumed with frangipani flowers and the daily offerings graciously made to the many shrines and temples. Even though there has been widespread development and traffic congestion is often a problem, it is still possible to enjoy Bali's many charms and wonderful landscape.

Volcanic Mount Batur

The flight from Sydney is only five hours, but from London mine took 19 which didn't feel so long on the way out but certainly did on the way back.  It was all worth it though, for the beautiful weather, therapeutic spa treatments and wonderful food.  We started in Nusa Dua for a short stay relaxing at the beach, but were keen to move inland to Ubud, the artistic hub of Bali.

Ducks in the rice fields

My inspiration was Janet de Neefe's evocative book 'Fragrant Rice' about her 'continuing love affair with Bali, a tale of passion, marriage and food.'  Her insights to the ancient beliefs and rituals still followed in Bali, woven in with achievable recipes, provides a greater understanding of this enchanting island.  Top of my 'to do' list was to participate in one of her excellent cooking classes held at the charming Honeymoon Guesthouse in central Ubud. The Tuesday class starts with a visit to the market.

Learning about coconut palm sugar

Janet demonstrating Sambul Tuwung (Roasted eggplant sambal)

Ubud has particularly become victim of it's own success and the excess traffic here means roads are often at a standstill, but somehow drivers navigate their way through without stress and all in Bali time.  (Meaning it simply takes as long as it takes, you have to be patient and it helps to not wear a watch).  Zebra crossings are a notional idea and disciplined tourists who valiantly wait at one to cross the road soon realise it makes no difference.  Drivers beep their horns to warn you they're approaching, but don't stop for pedestrians.  Understandable really when hoards of people file constantly along the narrow pavements in single line like ants. 

Kelapa Muda - whole young coconut and the perfect refreshing drink on a hot day

The restaurant scene in Ubud is excellent and really warrants a longer stay to do justice to trying everywhere that appeals.  Whether stopping for a pick-me-up mint, lime and lemongrass iced tisane at Locavore to Go:

To a fabulous dinner at Hujan with really good wine (a rarity in Bali - both choice available and high cost due to the luxury import tax), there's no shortage of tempting options.  

As Janet beautifully writes in her book...'take time to nurture your soul' and although meant in the context of her wholesome recipes I think being in Bali is good for reconnecting to the joy of life which we so often forget in the business of Western living.  Simple pleasures such as honouring each day and the delight of finding a welcome offering at your door.

Culinary highs in Ravello

Being in Italy always thrills me with such an alluring culture, climate, lifestyle and particularly for the fabulous food and wines.  I've just returned from a wonderful trip to Rome and the Amalfi coast, where a true highlight was to experience the Mamma Agata Cooking and Wine School in Ravello.  Perched high on the cliffs with stunning sea views, spending a day there is a really special experience. 

From the moment Chiara greets you and you have a first taste of the delicious signature lemon cake with coffee on arrival, you just know you're in for a treat.  Light as air and infused with the essence of Amalfi's famous lemons, which you see growing in the terraced gardens, the cake is stunning in it's simplicity.

The day's cooking demonstrations in the house kitchen are very leisurely and informative with plenty of tastings along the way, culminating in a wonderful lunch served on the covered terrace, with wine produced from the family vineyard.

Chiara, Mamma Agata's daughter is a fabulous host, and the day flows beautifully from Mamma Agata's cooking demonstrations in the morning, (making Parmigiana de Melanzane above) to Gennaro, Chiara's husband, taking over for the rest of the programme including Spaghetti del Contadino, or 'farmer's spaghetti' below.  They all share a deep passion for cooking, keeping ingredients simple, real and seasonal and that all elusive element of love is clearly apparent in all the dishes prepared.

A further pasta dish of Pappardelle con peperoni e salsicca (sausage and red pepper pasta), then Mamma Agata's famous Lemon Chicken (Pollo al limone) served with a green salad completed the lunch, before a final slice of the delectable Dolce al Limone (adored by Humphrey Bogart when Mamma Agata used to cook at Villa Civita).

Having bought the delightful Mamma Agata cookery book and fluted cake tin perfect for recreating the lemon cake at home, I am now all set to enjoy many more tastes of 'The Hidden Treasure' myself, along with priceless memories of a unique day.

Australian Food Adventure

Ever since my first visit to Australia over 25 years ago I have loved the culinary scene there.  From those early days of trying ingredients I'd never heard of before such as patty pan squash, to dishes including the Chinese and Malay inspired chilli-hot Laksa soup rich with prawns, coconut milk and lots of coriander, I always love to return to experience the latest food and wine trends.  After an absence of too long I have recently come back from a fabulous holiday mainly focused on Melbourne and Sydney, full of inspiration.  

Brunch at contemporary Kettle Black in South Melbourne has quickly become 'the' place to be (perhaps due to being featured in the February edition of the Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine) and was my first taste of chia pudding, which is now part of my breakfast repertoire at home.  Mine may not look as picture worthy as the delicious plate presented at Kettle Black, but thankfully the taste is the same complete with the finishing swirl of maple syrup. 

Having had a wonderful dinner prepared by Chef Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde fame, when he featured as part of a Taste Australia gala evening at Australia House in London, I was really keen to try a new casual dining outpost he is involved with - The Piggery at Burnham Beeches.  Situated in the scenic Dandenongs area outside of Melbourne, the quirky location is now a popular place for a light meal, coffee and cake.  My anticipation may have been too high as I was expecting something rather more special, but it's ideal for casual light dining and I chose the chicken platter which was impossible to visualise from the menu, before it was delivered to the table:

Back in South Yarra, Melbourne - a favourite area of mine as I lived there for a short while years ago, I had an impromptu delicious dinner at the successful Miss Chu's - a Vietnamese Hawker-style restaurant well worth waiting for a table at.  Coffee at the excellent Market Lane Coffee based at Prahran Market is a must too.  They source, roast and brew their carefully chosen beans and each single estate cup is delivered to your seat with a card giving the provenance of where the coffee came from.

A true gourmet highlight of my travels though was an amazing dinner I was fortunate to enjoy at Quay in Sydney, where chef Peter Gilmore creates the most fabulous menu.  The Quay website states their  "aim is to match the breathtaking harbour setting with quintessential modern Australian cuisine."  They truly do and I now see why they are Australia's most awarded restaurant.  I was so enamoured with the whole experience and being at a window table overlooking the Sydney Opera House, I didn't take any photos.  Thankfully though the incredible evening is etched on my memory.

May Your Rice Bowl Always Be Full

According to Chinese horoscope, lively, optimistic and progressive, the Year of the Monkey will be one in which anything can happen.  Arriving in Singapore just before Chinese New Year I enjoyed a visit to Chinatown to see all the preparations in place.  Stalls were laden with traditional oranges and fresh blossom, plus auspicious red and gold signs for display at home and for business, all symbolizing good luck, health, abundance, prosperity and happiness.

My main reason for staying in Singapore though was to explore Gardens by the Bay which had opened since the last time I was in town.  This impressive complex is on reclaimed land and the international master plan design competition originally held to seek world-class design ideas was won by two companies both from the UK.  The result is amazing, with an environmentally friendly landscape complete with futuristic super trees, lakes with a sophisticated water filtration system and two huge greenhouse structures - the Flower Dome:

and the Cloud Forest complete with waterfall:

Impressively Singapore is always evolving, whilst managing to celebrate it's heritage and has a fabulous arts scene with venues including the Esplande - with a distinctive roof line shaped like durian fruit; plus the renovated Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall; to the stunning new National Gallery which houses the world's largest collection of modern Southeast Asian art.  Apart from great displays, the gallery is also home to some wonderful places to eat.   I resisted the tempting selection at Plain Vanilla Bakery, as I went for lunch at Violet Oon's National Kitchen.  This delightful restaurant is based on Peranakan cooking and well worth a special trip.  With the menu blessing 'May your rice bowl always be full' the generous portions and traditional dishes provide a taste of Singapore no longer widely available.

The restaurant interior is a rich deep emerald colour, with dark wood, lavish chandeliers, traditional tiles, framed heritage pictures and large mirrors including ceiling panels, creating a stylish and welcoming space.  From the signature dishes the waiter recommended I chose to start with kuay pie tee - julienned bamboo shoots and turnip poached in a prawn bisque, topped with prawn, chilli sauce and fruit sauce in a 'top hat' which were very moorish.

For the main course I savoured chicken lemak made with coconut cream and kaffir lime, served with nasi lemak rice - jasmine steamed rice with coconut milk and just to ensure the coconut quotient was maximised I had Sayur Lodeh as a side dish - mixed vegetables with tempeh (bean curd) in a coconut gravy, mildly spiced.

This was definitely food to share, but being by myself I couldn't manage any dessert. My drink of choice was Violet's homemade Old Fashioned Ginger Beer described on the menu as 'fresh ginger root and lemon muddled and brewed till fizzy with spicy ginger bits'.  On a typically hot Singapore day who could resist the perfectly chilled and refreshing long drink, the perfect accompaniment to a wonderful lunch (or indeed at any time).  With the year of the Monkey heralding new beginnings I look forward to further inspiring travel experiences.