Peruvian Adventure

Machu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu

Dodging the fans waiting outside the Miraflores Hotel I stayed at in Lima, they were there to see Paul McCartney but I was in Peru to fulfil a childhood dream of going to Machu Picchu, the 'lost city of the Incas'. Arriving in Lima via Madrid (there are no direct flights from the UK) was a good place to start and a Pisco Sour seemed the order of the day. This national drink is totally delicious but the alcohol content combined with the altitude packs a punch.  The first and best one I tried, at the trendy boutique Hotel B in Barranco, soon explained why there was so much laughter and loud voices at the bar - even my writing was slurring as I jotted in my journal to remind myself that I'd ordered grilled garlic prawns, Sudado (fish of the day) in a ginger and herb broth, and for dessert lucma ice cream made from a fruit that looks like yellow avocado. 

Lima is a culinary hotspot and although I wasn't able to secure a table at the famed Gaston y Astrid restaurant, I suspect the 32 course tasting menu would have been quite a marathon.  The setting is charming though, in a 1920's style property in the San Isidro area which was originally farmland before Lima morphed into a huge international city.  Home to an impressive Cathedral; San Francisco Monastery; the first library to have opened in the Americas; and location of the first university founded in the mid-1500's; plus a well worthwhile trip to Mari Solari's textiles and artefacts gallery, a couple of days in Lima was ideal before I set off on more strenuous adventures. 

A short flight took me to Cusco 3,330 meters (10,900ft) above sea level, where my gracious and knowledgeable guide, Luis, met me at the airport.  En route to the fabulous Rio Sagrado Hotel we stopped in Pisac to explore the market.  The Sacred Valley is stunning with fertile soil producing two crops per year, wonderfully soft air and a beautiful energy, I knew I was in a special place.  The Incas were incredibly accomplished, worshipping the earth, sky, sun, moon and honouring Pacha Mama, or 'Mother Earth' in all aspects of their life.  Even today the Peruvian equivalent to toasting 'Cheers' is 'Pacha Mama' accompanied by dipping your finger into your drink then flicking onto the ground and in doing so acknowledging and thanking the cycle of nature.

I'd missed Richard Gere who had previously stayed at the Rio Sagrado, but could understand why he enjoyed being there so much.  With a verdant setting by the swiftly flowing river and hummingbirds flying around the foliage, it felt like paradise on earth.  I resisted sampling 'cuy' or guinea pig in favour of trying the Panquitas traditional creamy corn and Parea cheese seared and served with huancaina sauce served with a 'KM zero' salad.  At such high altitude it was essential to rest and pace things.  Luis showed me around Ollantaytambo - site of one of the great Inca fortresses and also Chinchero, an Andean village with a heritage of weaving, but the highlight of my trip was to reach Machu Picchu.  Opting for the comfortable Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes and then obligatory bus transfer along the switchback roads to Machu Picchu ('Old Mountain' in the Quechua language of the Incas) I had arrived.  The indifferent weather of the past few days had transformed into blue skies and sun.  

No one exactly knows the true origins why the Incas built, occupied and abandoned Machu Picchu in the mid -16th century, but it was a unique place and held a very important role in Inca history.  Myths abound and Hiram Bingham, the Yale graduate who re-discovered the site in 1911, was aware of..." the spiritual purpose of this place...the healing and peace which is the signature of Machu Picchu." I was fortunate to stay at Sanctuary Lodge adjacent to the main entrance and with an early start experienced sunrise.  Cloud and mist initially shrouded the site but dispersed as brightness shone through and the sun enveloped Machu Picchu in a re-energising new day's light.  Truly a 'wow' moment, the experience was a-m-a-z-i-n-g.  Later on I also climbed Huayana Picchu - a really strenuous additional 1200 feet above Machu Picchu which was literally breath-taking but gave even more incredible views.

For my return journey to Cusco I took the smart Orient-Express train for a spirited evening of music and dinner and then checked in to the tranquil Palacio Nazarenas - originally a convent built on the site where two Inca ceremonial routes met. During my few days in Cusco I explored the vibrant central market, looked around the Cathedral, saw the Sacsayhuaman Inca ruins and sampled ceviche - the marinated raw fish national dish of Peru, at the acclaimed El Tupay restaurant of the neighbouring Monasterio hotel.

The last stage of my journey involved a flight to Juliaca for the transfer to Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.  Hotel Titilaca was the best base for trips to see the famed Uros floating islands and Tequile Island where the men knit and the women weave.  Such high altitudes are challenging and even drinking a couple of cups of coca tea every morning did not completely avoid the inevitable sinus pressure.  A small inconvenience though for the experience of being in such an incredible part of the world.  There is so much more to see of Peru from Colca Canyon home of the condors, to delving into the Amazon rainforest, or flying over the Nazca lines.  It's always good to have reasons to return...