Autumn in Paris

True to the lyrics of the Cole Porter song I love Paris at any time of the year but to me Spring and Autumn are best. Being there at the end of October was particularly wonderful for so many reasons and above all whom I was with.  To share some inspirations of this fabulous city here are a few of my favourite things: the best croissant and individual jugs of delicious coffee for breakfast at Cafe de Flore whilst immersed in the total 'Frenchness' and history-infused atmosphere; walking along the elegant streets pondering on the lives of residents behind the smart doors and ornate ironwork balconies; that early morning anticipation of the new day in such an appealing capital lifting you up with it's energy; delectable displays at the Boulevard Raspail produce market requiring great resistance to buy ingredients for cooking when there's no home kitchen locally to return to; (I wonder if Ina Garten ever rents her apartment...what a dream that would be); beautiful fashion boutiques; chic displays at Bon Marche; impromtu street jazz providing the quintessential Saint-Germain vibe; perfectly chilled champagne...

Keeping to the Paris theme I'd highly recommend the recently released film "The Untouchables" based on a true story.  In French with English sub-titles the wry sense of humour is very entertaining and it's uncanny how the lead, Francois Cluzet, is truly a French Dustin Hoffman.  The unlikely story of a widowed millionaire paraplegic, result of a paragliding accident, plus his ex-con carer, has real character in the respect and fondness they develop for each other.  Watching it prior to my own Paris adventure was a great way of getting back into the language.

Last but not least I've just finished reading the New York Times best-seller book "Lunch in Paris" by Elizabeth Bard, equally charming this romance with recipes merges the American 'just do it' attitude with French joie de vivre.  A wonderful insight into one couple's happy ever after.  Food for the soul...

Autumn's progress

Even though I cling on to any shred of Summer for as long as I possibly can, the day comes when warmer clothes are needed, hot drinks are more appealing than cold and there's that slightly woody scent in the air that signifies the change in season.  The recent equinox heradling the official start of Autumn, followed by the powerful Harvest Moon means there's no denying the advance of this 'season of the mind' described in Jane Alexander's  excellent book 'The Natural Year' as a 'wake-up to the psyche after the langour of Summer'.  Jane explains how the key focus is on finding your path in life through assessing your career; making changes where necessary, trusting your intuition; fine-tuning your environment; becoming organised and managing stress.  

In the pagan tradition the Autumn equinox is seen as a festival of purification and September is a month of 'letting go'.  I think it's also fascinating that to the Chinese Autumn is a time for storing what's necessary and getting rid of what's no longer needed.  A time of clarity, relinquishing things both physical and emotional which no longer have a place in your life.  An inspiring concept the reality of which has far reaching impact, creating a sense of balance and being centred.

In letting go my sadness of Summer's end I shall embrace substituting outdoor swimming for walking and embark on a pleasurable time of nurturing, nesting, being aware there is always a choice - perhaps not in the outcome of a situation, but certainly in how we deal with it.  Whilst the colours of the leaves begin to change, I will be mindfully space clearing, completing a much overdue sort out of my wardrobes, gardening, preparing my home for the colder weather ahead and focusing on a fresh direction with work.  All within the framework of love, friendship, family and home that to me provides the best foundation for a truly fulfilling life. Relevant to any belief system I think Harvest Festival is a wonderful time to give thanks and enjoy the tradition of appreciating the fruits of the land.  This connectedness provides a rhythm to our year that irrespective of how quickly life may seem to be flying by, gives a sense of inner calm and grounding.

Time and Tide Wait for No Man...

As Summer turns and September begins to advance toward Autumn I'm always aware of the shift in season and sense of change that brings.  A time to consider how the rhythm of life goes on and nothing stays the same.  Locally to where I live is the charming and historic village of Bosham, situated on a peninsula between two tidal creeks, near Chichester in West Sussex.  Dating back to Saxon times this is the location where King Canute ordered the tide not to come in, as a lesson in mortality to his courtiers to prove he was 'just a king' and did not have special powers.  Irrespective of how we may try and control events in our own lives at some point it's necessary to acknowledge the need to 'go with the flow'.

I find it fascinating how Bosham has been a settlement for over a thousand years and with that the perpetual cycle of life through the ages.  A busy port at the time of the Crusades in the 12th Century it was traditional for Crusaders returning home from Constantinople and the Byzantine Empire to blunt the edges of their swords on the stones of the first church they came to.  Consequently to this day these marks of the cross can still be seen in the stone arch entrance to Bosham church.  Such a tangible connection with lives past across the centuries and realisation that we are each on this earth for a limited time.  Best then to make the most of every day and be aware of what's important. 

This poem called Late Fragment by Raymond Carver, who died at the age of 50, certainly makes you stop and reflect:

And did you get what
you wanted from this life, even so?
I did.
And what did you want?
To call myself beloved, to feel myself
beloved on the earth.



 

Joys of Summer

(Image courtesy of Steven Morris)

Post Olympics and the incredible spectacle of the closing ceremony there's a collective chance to relax, reflect and rejoice in this special time.  A memorable Summer for many reasons and not just the vagaries of the English weather.  August traditionally brings the chance for taking some time off and celebrates Lammas, the ancient festival of transformation.  For crops planted in the Winter this is now the start of farmers' busiest time of year and harvest.  A chance for us too for metaphorically taking stock of our own lives. 

Whilst enjoying time at the beach walking along the shore and swimming in the refreshing ocean, I've re-read a gem of a book I discovered years ago "Gift from the Sea" by Anne Morrow Lindbergh.  As the cover succinctly states: "A modern-day classic...wise meditations on youth and age, love and marriage, solitude, peace, and contentment...ways to reconcile our most deeply personal needs with obligations to family, friends, lovers, and work, ways to separate loneliness from replenishing solitude, and ways to find solace in the simplest of daily tasks...Gift from the Sea serves as a spiritual compass guiding us toward inner tranquility in the face of life's deeper questions".  Personally I think this slim volume and treasure of a book is beautifully written.  It opens your mind in the gentlest of ways, provides a different perspective and with it the chance to give thanks for all that is good in our lives.  A welcome pause for thought.

Hastings, East Sussex

Having lapsed a couple of weeks since my last blog the motivation to spotlight Hastings as promised has waned, but I do feel compelled to still share the few hidden gems I enjoyed discovering in case you have a chance to go too.  Hastings is like the proverbial curate's egg and 'good in parts'.   Probably an impressive place to be in it's Regency heyday, the faded grandeur and down-at-heel appearance of so much of the town is now rather sad.   Tucked in the more appealing old town the cookery writer and photographer Alastair Hendy has painstakingly renovated a Georgian house to create his Homestore.  Like stepping back in time, the wooden floors, authentic shop fittings and general sense of living history provide a unique backdrop for his stock.  On the ground floor is a collection of household brushes for every possible use from cleaning bottles to radiators.  The impressive full spectrum display from feather to hard bristle brushes makes you want to buy at least one for chores you never previously considered. Unfortunately the kitchen annexe was closed when I was there, but Alastair cooks on site and it would have been a wonderful experience.  A compelling reason for me to return as I'm a total fan of his excellent book "Food and Travels Asia". 

The East and West lifts, a celebration of Victorian engineering, take visitors to the cliff top for views along the coast.  Along the beach front is the curious site of historical tall, narrow wooden black sheds housing fishermen's nets.  The fishing fleet is still active and the shore is crammed with huts selling the catch of the day.  Apart from the fishing and shipwreck museums, the new Jerwood Gallery for contemporary art is in stark contrast to the traditional architecture.  Closed when I was there, this space will really bring Hastings into the 21st century, probably with a jolt.  A trusty band of Hastings supporters is striving to uplift the offering of the resort.  Jo Fairley's traditional Judge's Bakery is a mecca for residents wanting fresh bread and traditional cakes; her Pomegranate restaurant looks very appealing and the Wellington Centre offering natural therapies is worth a visit.  There are some quirky individual boutiques and with some careful editing a short trip to Hastings is to be recommended.  I didn't manage to go to Maggie's on the beach, but for the best fish and chips in town that's where I'll head next time.  Just beware of the low flying seagulls that are apt to swoop and steal your ice cream cone straight out of your hand as you innocently walk along the shore.

Oh I do like to be beside the seaside...

Spontaneously deciding to have a couple of days away this week I headed to an area I'd never been to before, Camber Sands in East Sussex, combined with Rye and Hastings.  Dubbed 1066 country the area is certainly very historical, but I was there to enjoy beach walks and explore hidden charms.  Lured by superlative travel magazine editorial and an appealing website I booked to stay at The Gallivant hotel, with it's 'New England' style.  High expectations are usually hard to live up to and this was the case, when I checked in to my 'coastal double' small but functional room which could have done with a fresh lick of paint and the light bulb replacing above the only chair. If you're after a relaxing break I'd suggest booking a 'coastal deluxe' or the beach hut room to give you more space.  I'm probably being overly critical, but forget any romantic notion of a sea view - the front of the hotel overlooks the car park and back a housing estate. 

Thankfully the sky cleared to provide enough glimpse of the sun to lift your spirits.  I crossed the road and walked up over the dunes to reach the famous five-mile beach.  The field of wind turbines behind the hotel should have been a warning sign of this being a blowy area and the sand whipping along the beach left my legs tingling.  Undeterred and discarding my sandals, the soft sand felt surprisingly warm.  Only a few hardy souls were braving the beach, but I walked along the sea's edge, my feet invigorated by the refreshing water.  There's nothing like the uplifting boost of being in the elements and I returned to The Galliavant suitably ready for dinner.  I wanted to try the sparkling Gusbourne Estate blanc de blancs, Appledore, Kent, described on the wine list as the English equivalent of Comtes de Champagne from Tattinger, but clearly everyone else chose that too as it was out of stock.  Instead I had a glass of the Chapel Down Brut from Tenterden, also in Kent which was lovely.  My choice from the blackboard of whole dover sole with brown shrimp butter, pink fir potatoes, and shredded cabbage was perfectly cooked, simple and delicious, accompanied by a glass of chilled unoaked French Chardonnay.  Just a shame that dessert was a non-event (a shallow glass of rubbery rhubarb jelly with a teaspoon of raspberry ripple ice cream).

In addition to Camber Sands the Gallivant is well placed to visit Rye, only three miles away, where the restaurant at The George is certainly worth going to in conjunction with browsing the quaint shops and ancient architecture.  You can stay at the George too...Next time I'll tell you about my experience of Hastings.

Summer 2012

The beginning of July, high Summer and the promise of all that brings, but still not warm enough to shun my oh-so-English cardigan, even if the one I'm wearing today is a zingy lime green and fun to wear.  Last weekend the weather was even more dire.  Having ventured to East Wittering for a bracing walk by the sea I was virtually blown along like human flotsam and jetsam, by the type of penetrating wind that makes your ears throb.  My zodiac sign being Cancer I am drawn to water as the place I need to go to connect with source.  Whenever I need time to think it's my solace.  Such vastness and the infinity of the horizon puts things in perspective.  The churning sea spat out wetsuit clad adrenalin seekers on their surf boards; with faces in pinched expressions, all in pursuit of a few moments of bliss riding the whipped up waves before plunging into the foam.  I watched mesmerised by their choice to embrace the elements and seek exhilaration.  Whatever the weather I always enjoy being at the coast.  To be by the sea and soak up the ozone's restorative effects never fails to refresh and invigorate me.

I am at heart a Summer person and ongoing grey skies and rain have a negative effect on me.  Even though Professor Brian Cox in his stunning BBC Two series "Wonders of the Solar System" describes the huge benefit of rain cleansing the earth, I still crave warmth, blue skies and sunshine.  Interestingly in her book 'Spiritual Wisdom', author Claire Montanaro talks about the significance of the year 2012 when astronomically the sun will align with the Milky Way galactic centre at the solstice on 21 December. Such a galactic alignment only happens once every 26,000 years.   The Mayan calendar predicts both the alignment and a resulting change of human consciousness due to the completion of one era and the start of another.  Claire's view is that the solstices in June and December and the time leading up to them will be significant..."The realignment of our planet will result in some earth changes, such as volcanic activity and flooding in places...Humanity is entering the 'pause' period now between the two cycles, evidence of these changes is clear already through extreme and disruptive weather patterns in different parts of the world."  So we're in transition.  Perhaps I needed reminding the experience of living on earth is amazing and who am I to be craving better weather.  Happy month come rain or shine.