Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona
Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona

Tuesday, 14 August 2012

Joys of Summer

(Image courtesy of Steven Morris)


Post Olympics and the incredible spectacle of the closing ceremony there's a collective chance to relax, reflect and rejoice in this special time.  A memorable Summer for many reasons and not just the vagaries of the English weather.  August traditionally brings the chance for taking some time off and celebrates Lammas, the ancient festival of transformation.  For crops planted in the Winter this is now the start of farmers' busiest time of year and harvest.  A chance for us too for metaphorically taking stock of our own lives. 

Whilst enjoying time at the beach walking along the shore and swimming in the refreshing ocean, I've re-read a gem of a book I discovered years ago "Gift from the Sea" by Anne Morrow Lindbergh.  As the cover succinctly states: "A modern-day classic...wise meditations on youth and age, love and marriage, solitude, peace, and contentment...ways to reconcile our most deeply personal needs with obligations to family, friends, lovers, and work, ways to separate loneliness from replenishing solitude, and ways to find solace in the simplest of daily tasks...Gift from the Sea serves as a spiritual compass guiding us toward inner tranquility in the face of life's deeper questions".  Personally I think this slim volume and treasure of a book is beautifully written.  It opens your mind in the gentlest of ways, provides a different perspective and with it the chance to give thanks for all that is good in our lives.  A welcome pause for thought.

Thursday, 2 August 2012

Hastings, East Sussex



Having lapsed a couple of weeks since my last blog the motivation to spotlight Hastings as promised has waned, but I do feel compelled to still share the few hidden gems I enjoyed discovering in case you have a chance to go too.  Hastings is like the proverbial curate's egg and 'good in parts'.   Probably an impressive place to be in it's Regency heyday, the faded grandeur and down-at-heel appearance of so much of the town is now rather sad.   Tucked in the more appealing old town the cookery writer and photographer Alastair Hendy has painstakingly renovated a Georgian house to create his Homestore.  Like stepping back in time, the wooden floors, authentic shop fittings and general sense of living history provide a unique backdrop for his stock.  On the ground floor is a collection of household brushes for every possible use from cleaning bottles to radiators.  The impressive full spectrum display from feather to hard bristle brushes makes you want to buy at least one for chores you never previously considered. Unfortunately the kitchen annexe was closed when I was there, but Alastair cooks on site and it would have been a wonderful experience.  A compelling reason for me to return as I'm a total fan of his excellent book "Food and Travels Asia". 

The East and West lifts, a celebration of Victorian engineering, take visitors to the cliff top for views along the coast.  Along the beach front is the curious site of historical tall, narrow wooden black sheds housing fishermen's nets.  The fishing fleet is still active and the shore is crammed with huts selling the catch of the day.  Apart from the fishing and shipwreck museums, the new Jerwood Gallery for contemporary art is in stark contrast to the traditional architecture.  Closed when I was there, this space will really bring Hastings into the 21st century, probably with a jolt.  A trusty band of Hastings supporters is striving to uplift the offering of the resort.  Jo Fairley's traditional Judge's Bakery is a mecca for residents wanting fresh bread and traditional cakes; her Pomegranate restaurant looks very appealing and the Wellington Centre offering natural therapies is worth a visit.  There are some quirky individual boutiques and with some careful editing a short trip to Hastings is to be recommended.  I didn't manage to go to Maggie's on the beach, but for the best fish and chips in town that's where I'll head next time.  Just beware of the low flying seagulls that are apt to swoop and steal your ice cream cone straight out of your hand as you innocently walk along the shore.

Saturday, 14 July 2012

Oh I do like to be beside the seaside...



Spontaneously deciding to have a couple of days away this week I headed to an area I'd never been to before, Camber Sands in East Sussex, combined with Rye and Hastings.  Dubbed 1066 country the area is certainly very historical, but I was there to enjoy beach walks and explore hidden charms.  Lured by superlative travel magazine editorial and an appealing website I booked to stay at The Gallivant hotel, with it's 'New England' style.  High expectations are usually hard to live up to and this was the case, when I checked in to my 'coastal double' small but functional room which could have done with a fresh lick of paint and the light bulb replacing above the only chair. If you're after a relaxing break I'd suggest booking a 'coastal deluxe' or the beach hut room to give you more space.  I'm probably being overly critical, but forget any romantic notion of a sea view - the front of the hotel overlooks the car park and back a housing estate. 

Thankfully the sky cleared to provide enough glimpse of the sun to lift your spirits.  I crossed the road and walked up over the dunes to reach the famous five-mile beach.  The field of wind turbines behind the hotel should have been a warning sign of this being a blowy area and the sand whipping along the beach left my legs tingling.  Undeterred and discarding my sandals, the soft sand felt surprisingly warm.  Only a few hardy souls were braving the beach, but I walked along the sea's edge, my feet invigorated by the refreshing water.  There's nothing like the uplifting boost of being in the elements and I returned to The Galliavant suitably ready for dinner.  I wanted to try the sparkling Gusbourne Estate blanc de blancs, Appledore, Kent, described on the wine list as the English equivalent of Comtes de Champagne from Tattinger, but clearly everyone else chose that too as it was out of stock.  Instead I had a glass of the Chapel Down Brut from Tenterden, also in Kent which was lovely.  My choice from the blackboard of whole dover sole with brown shrimp butter, pink fir potatoes, and shredded cabbage was perfectly cooked, simple and delicious, accompanied by a glass of chilled unoaked French Chardonnay.  Just a shame that dessert was a non-event (a shallow glass of rubbery rhubarb jelly with a teaspoon of raspberry ripple ice cream).

In addition to Camber Sands the Gallivant is well placed to visit Rye, only three miles away, where the restaurant at The George is certainly worth going to in conjunction with browsing the quaint shops and ancient architecture.  You can stay at the George too...Next time I'll tell you about my experience of Hastings.

Sunday, 1 July 2012

Summer 2012

The beginning of July, high Summer and the promise of all that brings, but still not warm enough to shun my oh-so-English cardigan, even if the one I'm wearing today is a zingy lime green and fun to wear.  Last weekend the weather was even more dire.  Having ventured to East Wittering for a bracing walk by the sea I was virtually blown along like human flotsam and jetsam, by the type of penetrating wind that makes your ears throb.  My zodiac sign being Cancer I am drawn to water as the place I need to go to connect with source.  Whenever I need time to think it's my solace.  Such vastness and the infinity of the horizon puts things in perspective.  The churning sea spat out wetsuit clad adrenalin seekers on their surf boards; with faces in pinched expressions, all in pursuit of a few moments of bliss riding the whipped up waves before plunging into the foam.  I watched mesmerised by their choice to embrace the elements and seek exhilaration.  Whatever the weather I always enjoy being at the coast.  To be by the sea and soak up the ozone's restorative effects never fails to refresh and invigorate me.

I am at heart a Summer person and ongoing grey skies and rain have a negative effect on me.  Even though Professor Brian Cox in his stunning BBC Two series "Wonders of the Solar System" describes the huge benefit of rain cleansing the earth, I still crave warmth, blue skies and sunshine.  Interestingly in her book 'Spiritual Wisdom', author Claire Montanaro talks about the significance of the year 2012 when astronomically the sun will align with the Milky Way galactic centre at the solstice on 21 December. Such a galactic alignment only happens once every 26,000 years.   The Mayan calendar predicts both the alignment and a resulting change of human consciousness due to the completion of one era and the start of another.  Claire's view is that the solstices in June and December and the time leading up to them will be significant..."The realignment of our planet will result in some earth changes, such as volcanic activity and flooding in places...Humanity is entering the 'pause' period now between the two cycles, evidence of these changes is clear already through extreme and disruptive weather patterns in different parts of the world."  So we're in transition.  Perhaps I needed reminding the experience of living on earth is amazing and who am I to be craving better weather.  Happy month come rain or shine.


Thursday, 14 June 2012

Lunch in Paris

Humming 'la vie est belle' in my head whilst waiting for the 06.26 train to Waterloo, I seemed to be the only person wearing any colour on the station platform already busy with early commuters.  Connecting to St Pancras and excitedly following the signs for Eurostar international departures, I was on my way to Paris just for the day, for lunch.  Despite clear announcements advising passengers on the services currently open for check-in a stressed French woman impatiently pushed ahead trying to beat the queue, in such a rush but going nowhere slowly.  Seething with frustration she swung her trolley on wheels around against the tide of travellers progressing through the security barriers.  I'm sure psychologists must mine a vast wealth of research on human behaviour simply by observing people in transit.  The cabaret had begun.  Through in the busy departures hall a large group of young Americans were being coralled by their tour leader shouting instructions to 'huddle' which they did to such an effect as to block anyone elses path through the area.  Struggling with their oversized luggage I was thankful to be travelling light.  Having only a handbag felt rather decadent for a foray to Europe, albeit a short trip.

Having met my dear friend Jo for her special birthday celebration, we took our seats on the 08.31 Eurostar service and sped to Paris.  A swift metro ride on arrival and we emerged into the sunshine of St-Germain to the sound of wonderful jazz floating through the air.  An impromptu trio had set up on the pavement comprising double bass, drums and upright piano, which set the uplifting tone of our day.  La vie truly is belle. 

Straight into retail therapy we emerged from the delightful emporium of Laduree clutching their signature green and gold carrier bags with boxes of exquisite macaroons of flavour sensations ranging from rose to reglisse (liquorice), via salted caramel, to pistachio.  Soaking up the atmosphere and browsing along rue Jacob we made our way to our lunch destination, Brasserie Lipp.  A famous Paris institution this wonderful restaurant serves quintessential French favourites with a traditional flourish.  Restored by a flute of champagne the menu did not require much consideration as I always order exactly the same main course there - brandade served with a green salad.  Deceptively simple this dish of salt cod with mashed potato may sound bland, but is anything but.  The light texture and satisfying taste are a revelation that I never venture beyond.  Accompanied by a glass of chilled Sancerre I was happy and so was Jo with the same combination, having never tried brandade before.  In true French style we chose cheese as the next course - a distinctive Hansi served with cumin seeds and a more familiar Brie de Meaux, served with the freshest of ficelle bread and unsalted butter, perfect with a glass of Bordeaux.  Rather full the prospect of dessert was too much, even though the house speciality mille feuilles is legendary, as is the rum baba.  Next time.  A strong coffee was the perfect boost before an afternoon shopping along rue du Bac, culminating at the fabulous Bon Marche department store.  Perhaps not many people go to Paris without seeing any of the sights, going to any of the galleries, or taking a bateaux mouches trip on the Seine, but I can't go to Paris without a visit to the impressive La Grande Epicerie food halls at Bon Marche.  A gourmet paradise I limited my purchases on the basis everything had to be carried back on the train.  The afternoon flew.  A welcome cup of tea with the chance to sit and watch Paris go by and then it was time to return to the Gare du Nord. 

Musing on the fact that life is what you make of it I then saw written on a shop window "c'est maintenant ou jamais"...it's now or never.  The accolade may have been to promote the special discounts in store, but what a poignant reminder to make things happen, do what makes you happy and always make time for the people and places that are important to you.  Time flies and so do the years.  Have no regrets. La vie est belle.

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Diamond Jubilee Celebrations

Trumpet fanfares; gilded State coaches; pristine ceremonial uniforms; centuries of heritage and precisional planning contribute to create the fabulous pageantry that Britain does so well.  As I write this with the television on in the background, crowds of people waving flags are gathering in the Mall and outside Buckingham Palace for the balcony appearance of the Queen and Royal family on the fourth day of the Diamond Jubilee celebrations.  Truly an inspiration, the unique continuity provided by Her Majesty throughout her 60 year reign is awesome.  In true English fashion the weather has been challenging, but our steadfast Queen Elizabeth II has carried on regardless.  The huge energy, enthusiasm and patriotism of the British people supporting the occasion of the Diamond Jubilee has been incredible, but more so the uplifting reality of the Queen's dedication to her role.  Claxons sounding and the roars of the crowd drew me back to watch the televised fly past.  Impressive and moving to see.

Joining in my local neighbourhood party to mark the occasion on Sunday, I baked a traditional Victoria sponge decorated as the Union flag to share.  Everyone loves cake and what a great sense of community to come together and enjoy honouring our Monarch in a time honoured way with afternoon tea.  Long to reign over us, God Save The Queen.

Sunday, 20 May 2012

Find the Ducklings

I was going to call this post 'reasons to be cheerful' following the run of grey, wet weather lately, which seemed to have dampened everyones' spirits and then I went for a walk locally to where I live and was enchanted by seeing a rather glamorous duck with her six baby ducklings flitting along the stream in a beam of sunshine.  Mill Road running along the side of Arundel Castle is a joy in all weathers, lined with tall majestic beech trees and displaying the wonders of nature in all her glory year round.  Seeing the adorable little chicks chirping away as they explored their new home was so delightful.  It made me realise we're surrounded by miracles every day, sometimes we just need to stop and appreciate them.

Another uplifting pleasure has been entertaining friends for dinner which gave me the excuse of baking something delicious for dessert.  The best feelgood factor that chocolate always delivers is hard to beat, so I decided to make a dark chocolate roulade filled with black cherries soaked in kirsch, lots of whipped cream, black cherry conserve for added zing and extra shavings of Montezuma's plain chocolate for decoration.  Illiciting responses of 'wow' I'm not sure who enjoyed the indulgence most, either my friends thinking they were in seventh heaven eating it, or me having the benefit of the aroma of baking filling the house and being in my own world preparing the treat.  Everyone was happy and with the bonus of leftovers the following day.

I've since made a double batch of chocolate almond cupcakes as a thank you gift and also to take to another friend who has just left hospital; plus made lemoncurd which is a firm family favourite.  So although I haven't ventured very far lately either for work or leisure, I have lots of exciting travel plans on the horizon to keep me in ancitipation of new directions ahead, but in the meantime have made the most of being somewhere I truly love to be, home.