British Food Fortnight

British Food Fortnight runs from 17th September to 2nd October to coincide with Harvest Festival and the traditional time of year for celebrating our food.  I've been musing on this lately, as an appreciation of UK-produced seasonal produce should ideally be ongoing and not just a marketing initiative, although perhaps it is a timely reminder and provides focus.  The ancient festivals of Lammas in August marking the beginning of the harvest season, followed by September's Harvest Moon we experienced with last week's full moon, then culminating in Michaelmas at the end of September, provide much opportunity for giving thanks.  Our ancestors would have been far more in tune with the rhythms of the year and working together as a supportive community to ensure farmers were able to successfully bring the harvest home, thereby ensuring food supplies through the Winter months.  Re-connecting with this wonderful natural cycle provides a sense of being centred and grounded in life.  The abundance at  my local farmers' market on Saturday was wonderful.  I always get carried away and buy too much, added to which I've recently been given a glut of damsons, as well as a basket of green tomatoes, so have been busy making jam and chutney for the first time in years.  Something about the simple process of preserving nature's bounty is such a rewarding experience, especially being able to share the outcome for family and friends to enjoy.  I felt inspired to bake some bread too and the uplifting smell of the loaf in the oven was a simple pleasure that I shall recreate more often.  We are truly blessed that everything we could possibly want to eat is available in the shops or online, but even better to be mindful of where it has come from and give thanks for the joy and sustenance that good food lovingly grown and prepared provides.

Holiday Memory

On a grey, dismal Sunday evening it's hard to believe I was enjoying the warm Italian sunshine just a couple of weeks ago.  To capture the moment of a chance event on the beach that made me smile I wrote the following piece for the Daily Telegraph "Just Back From" travel writing competition.  Unfortunately the judges didn't choose my entry, but rather than consign it to the bin I thought it was worthy of exposure on my blog.  I hope you like it:

Serried ranks of green and yellow parasols shade neatly paired deckchairs on the sand, the rhythmic sound of the waves on the shore gives a sense of timeless continuity and bronzed bodies of all sizes and ages set the scene.  Fervent games of football using improvised goalposts at the water’s edge; the whistle of the Salvataggio lifeguard warning swimmers against the sweeping current; small clusters of older generation holiday makers playing cards; much chatter; teen preening and flirting; babies idolised.  The beach is truly a microcosm of Italian life. With instinctive side-taking, worthy of the Montagues and Capulets, a group of bikini-clad girls is up in arms about their much rehearsed holiday dance routine.  Practised daily at the side of the Annita Bagno beach café, the young group has been perfecting their Summer moves, but there is dissension in the air. The mini-me versions of their middle-aged parents start gesticulating wildly.  Finger wagging and foot stamping, folded arms and frowning, the youngsters take their disagreement so seriously you would imagine their very lives depended on it.  Tears and tantrums followed by much consoling and plotting, then the rebels defiantly walk away from the impromptu stage.  With a backdrop of painted wooden changing huts; an assortment of inflatable Lilos to toy dolphins and rubber rings; plus multi-coloured patterned towels out to dry in the sun, at that very moment the makeshift set was the centre of their universe. 

I walked by on my daily visit to the new ice cream parlour on the pedestrian boulevard edging the beach.  Late afternoon and a queue had already formed, as if in line for the hottest nightclub in town.  I remember the phrase ‘dolce far niente’ – sweet doing nothing, or delicious idleness.  There is no hurry. All good things are worth waiting for and the few minutes deliberating on choice of flavours before my turn to be served are well spent.  Having ruled out the temptations of hazelnut-studded chocolate Baci; to cherry-packed Amarena, I choose a luscious raspberry gelati and scoop of intense pistachio for good measure.  Life is for living, holidays are a celebration and for that instant my ice cream was the sole focus of my attention.  The hot sun soon starts to take its share melting my indulgent treat more quickly that I can eat it.  I stand in the shade to savour the moment and watch the world go by.

Minutes later returning to the beach I pass the group of youngsters, their beach tiff seemingly resolved.  On cue the music starts, smiling dancers enter stage left from the side of the bagno café and strut their stuff to the CD player.  All is well, the ebb and flow of beach life goes on.    Another sunny day in Tuscany.

Gelati in Bella Italia

One of the many compelling reasons to visit Italy is the ice cream.  Simply the best in the world.  The Italians' passion for which knows no bounds and evening queues forming outside the newest gelaterias in the Tuscan beach resort I've just returned from rivalled those of the hottest night clubs.  My holiday read whilst I was away was very apt - "The Empress of Ice Cream" by Anthony Capella.  I really enjoy his books and have read all four.  This latest novel, set in the 1670's, spans the court of the Medicis in Florence where Carlo Demirico learns the secret art of making delectable ice creams from his Persian master, to Paris and the court of Louis XIV, then to London during the reign of King Charles II.  An evocative insight to life in the 17th Century and an ideal book for devouring on the beach.  Thankfully I combined my appetite for the plot with the indulgence of a daily treat of freshly made gelati, the only dilemma being which flavours to choose.  After much deliberation and comparisons between hazelnut-studded Baci; seriously dark chocolate; cherry-packed Amarena; creamy vanilla with crushed biscuit folded through; to chocolate-chip Stracciatella, my favourite combination was a scoop of pure pistachio partnered with intense lampone (raspberry).  Heaven in a cone for only 2.70 Euros. Delizioso!

Luxury Accommodation in Istanbul

Exploring Istanbul as a Corporate Event Buyer gave me a unique chance to compare and contrast top hotels the city has to offer.  The excellent range of five star options appeals to all tastes, but making a final choice needs to be tailor-made to specific requirements.  I would recommend different locations depending on the time of year; whether the trip is for business or leisure; and guests' priorities / interests.  For example in the Summer I think the two very best places to choose between are the fabulous Ciragan Palace Kempinski, or the neighbouring chic Four Seasons Bosphorous.  The Ciragan Palace has the best outdoor pool in a resort-style setting and 70% of the bedrooms have views of the Bosphorous.  Decor is in traditional style and the palace wing is truly opulent - ideal if you'd like to arrive by private helicopter and spend Eur40,000 per night on your suite.  Thankfully the regular room rate is a fraction of the cost.  These waterfront properties provide the perfect opportunity to take a private boat transfer from the airport and avoid the usual road traffic challenges on arrival. Four Seasons Bosphorous is one of two properties in Istanbul (the smaller and older Four Seasons Sultanahmet is centrally located and ideal for sightseeing around the Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, and Topkapi Palace).  The Park Hyatt is tucked away in the trendy Nisantasi area, the Istanbul equivalent to London's Bond Street, and partners well with events held at the Grand Hyatt.  New on the block is the Edition hotel, a collaboration between Ian Shraeger and Marriott hotels.  An unexpected tie-in but the result is a contemporary and comfortable design hotel ideal for small business meetings, or a weekend break for trendy urbanites.  Near the Kanyon shopping complex and by an underground station the Edition is a practical option, but not so central.  The three floor spa is bound to attract a loyal following but personally I wasn't keen on the fact it's underground.  Swimming so far below street level felt strange (although the pool is lovely) and having to take a lift to -5 to find the spa reception.   In complete contrast the Pera Palace has been the grande dame of Istanbul for over a century, originally attracting the rich and famous passengers travelling on the Orient-Express train.  Agatha Christie is immortalised in suite 411 and the hotel's recent major refurbishment has established it as a renowned heritage hotel.  Beautifully renovated, the Pera Palace no longer has the Golden Horn views that would have been enjoyed when the hotel first opened, but the property is a historical gem, well located and good for those seeking a sense of nostalgia.  Although there is a small indoor pool it's nothing special for those  keen to enjoy a swim.  With a new Raffles hotel, plus a new Shangri-La hotel opening next year, Istanbul is constantly expanding the tempting array of places to stay.  I should also mention there are some smaller boutique properties created from converted grand homes, which are ideal on an exclusive use basis with around ten plus bedrooms.  For celebrating a special occasion this could be an ideal solution.  With a flight time of four hours from the UK it's the most oriental destination within the shortest flying time, providing a great combination of east meets west.  Offering a wealth of places to see and delicious food to try, the experience is well worth it.  Just choose your hotel wisely.

Turkish Flavours

Turkish coffee; Turkish Delight... I'm always fascinated by culinary word association and the type of things that come to mind when thinking about dishes or ingredients a country may be famous for.  Prior to my few days away in Istanbul my knowledge of Turkish cuisine was extremely limited.  Hardly needing an excuse to treat myself to yet another cookery book, my curiosity was broadened by the recently released and wonderful insight of Leanne Kitchen: "Turkey - Recipes and tales from the road."  Full of evocative photography, I couldn't resist writing a gourmet wish list of all the things I wanted to try during my short stay.  The reality was that I tasted so much more than anticipated and came home inspired to try lots of new recipes. Within Turkey there are seven diverse regions and the country shares its border with Greece, Bulgaria, Georgia, Armenia,  Azerbaijan, Iran, Iraq and Syria, so there is a huge range of influences at play.  Apart from enjoying eating at a wide range of restaurants from the simple but bountiful breakfast served at Sutis overlooking the Bosphorous, where my favourite dish was the delicious Menemem (variation on scrambled eggs with cheese and tomato); to the renowned Reina serving fabulous mezze; followed by grilled seabass at the club's waterside restaurant Blue Topaz; I also took a "Turkish Flavours" hands-on cookery course run by Selin Rozan at her art-deco apartment. This gave a unique introduction to the ingredients and methods used to create a range of typical dishes from the flaky pastry savoury borek (with either a meat or feta cheese filling), to stuffed aubergines, and poached apricots served with Halva floss - the best candy floss I've ever tasted.  Definitely the best way to learn a lot in a short space of time combined with the opportunity of being hosted in a personal home. 

Whilst in Istanbul I was also keen to try authentic Turkish Delight, which is called Lokum and not Delight as logic may suggest.  In my opinion the best is from Hayat in the Spice Market.  Incredibly moorish and the ideal energy boost, my vote goes to the cherry and pistachio version, although of course I needed to taste test several others to know for sure, including the close second pomegranate and pistachio.  Istanbul is a culinary delight and enriching gourmet experience.  As for Turkish Coffee, stronger than espresso and delivering that caffeine sensation hit between the eyes, it's not for me, but Turkish tea typically served in a tulip-shaped glass is a welcome refreshment any time...

Istanbul

"Travel brings power and love back into your life." Rumi

Previously known as Byzantium then Constantinople and having served as the capital of the Roman Empire through to the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul is a city I'd wanted to visit ever since learning about 'Asia Minor' in my favourite subject of geography at school.  Decades later I finally have and just returned from enjoying five days of exploring the best that Istanbul has to offer.  Perhaps during Ramadan is not the ideal time to go, but made for an even more interesting experience.  Traffic is a notorious problem in Istanbul at the best of times, but factor into the mix the majority of inhabitants fast from sunrise to sunset (with not even water to drink) and it makes for a lot of very cranky drivers by the end of the afternoon.  As the largest city in Europe (17 million inhabitants) Istanbul is the cultural, economic and financial centre of Turkey, located on the Bosphorous Strait.  It's the only metropolis in the world situated on two continents, Europe and Asia.  From the shopping temptations of the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar to the sightseeing draws of the Hagia Sophia; Blue Mosque; and impressive Topkapi Palace, you're spoilt for choice.  Just don't challenge a taxi driver about the fare during Ramadan and instead channel Rumi, the Persian poet and mystic, for some inspiration: "And you? When will you begin that long journey into yourself".

More on Istanbul and Turkish culinary delights to follow...

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Lunch out is always a treat, more so when with a dear friend and in celebration of my birthday.  I hadn't been to the Leconfield in Petworth before and purposely hadn't read any reviews on Trip Advisor so as not to have any preconceived ideas.  The reality was a smartly decorated but relaxed restaurant where we had a table in the conservatory and enjoyed a totally delicious meal.  Lisa, the excellent waitress, ensured that the service was exactly as one would hope - friendly, informed and efficient.  Ingredients are sourced locally and reflect the best of the season.  My razor clam first course was superb, although Linsi's choice of cucumber-wrapped soused and smoked mackerel, radish and red onion salad, dill mayonnaise, and cumin rye croutons looked more of a work of art.  The menu provided a good selection of starters and main courses with an additional lunch menu to supplement the a la carte.  I couldn't resist the trio of beef sliders, three delectable Goodwood mini beefburgers, cooked to perfection and served with the house special sauce (tomato based with a mustard kick), garnished with large chips.  Dessert seemed totally indulgent but sounded too good to miss.  Lisa recommended the dessert plate of mini-sized portions of the popular choices, although the idea to share went out the window when Linsi was drawn to the praline and dulce de leche semi-fredo, caramel ice cream, chocolate macaroon and broken honeycombe.  Consequently I had the selection of tasters all to myself.  Just as well diets always begin tomorrow...