Spanish Sunshine and Gastronomy

Imagine departing on a flight from London Gatwick on a rather grey morning, to arrive in Barcelona less than two hours later and transfer for a truly delicious seafood lunch by the beach just 20 minutes from leaving the airport.  Spain to me is often an unsung travel hero, with such a wealth of fabulous destinations and delights in store, all a relatively short journey from the UK.  A world away in culture, cuisine and climate, I was very fortunate to join a small group to experience highlights of a two-centre trip during mid-October and enjoyed every moment.

Thinking I'd mis-heard the pronunciation, Badalona is a seaside neighbourhood just a short drive from Barcelona, with a lovely beach and restaurant in pole position overlooking the ocean.  Dining with the background sound of the sea lapping the shore was so uplifting.

As a welcome lunch the speciality rice dish with lobster, langoustines, cuttlefish and prawns accompanied by a chilled glass of regional white wine set the tone for a gastronomic four days ahead.

Suddenly tiredness from the early morning start had totally evaporated and the onward hour's road journey to Girona went very swiftly.  Just south of Girona is the wonderful Hotel Camiral at PGA Catalunya Resort www.pgacatalunya.com  With 145 bedrooms, excellent meeting and event space for 10-450 attendees, the renowned golf course is ranked as one of the top three in Spain and top six in Europe.  The appealing light and airy interior architecture and design make this a very comfortable and attractive hotel.

Hotel Camiral is also the perfect base to explore nearby Girona, rich in medieval history and architecture, with a fascinating Old Quarter and Roman remains.  Following a one-hour walking tour learning about the history of the region and spoilt for choice with gourmet restaurants for dinner, I couldn't resist ordering delicious truffle pasta at Cal Ros, being mid-October and truffle season...

It seemed ironic not to participate in the golf clinic at this hallowed destination, but for the non-golfers amongst us, there was the chance to enjoy some warm 24 degrees Centigrade sunshine lounging by the outdoor pool.  In the Winter season for ski aficionados, snow slopes of the Pyrenees are only a one-and-a-half hour drive away over the border in France.  

After another fabulous lunch including the best anchovies ever, calamari, cod croquettes, razor clams and the ubiquitous tomato bread, this time at a funky beach taverna in the seaside neighbourhood of S'Agaro, we went for a wine tour featuring two completely different producers.  First stop was to a traditional farm location where the same family has been lovingly producing wine in the same way for centuries, the only concession to change when electricity was installed.  The grapes are grown organically and according to ancient bio-dynamic principles, in tune with the phases of the moon.  

After a tasting we then continued on foot for a scenic hike over the hillside to an ultra-modern facility utilising the latest technology to produce more sophisticated wines but equally delicious.

A farewell dinner at the Hotel Camiral concluded the first part of our journey, with a road transfer the following morning to The Almanac Barcelona   www.almanachotels.com  Newly awarded the Conde Nast Traveller Best Hotel in Barcelona Award, this centrally located city hotel is perfectly placed to offer guests a very chic and comfortable stay.  With 61 rooms and 30 suites, the latest technology in all the bedrooms provides a free-to-use smartphone for unlimited national and international calls and a bedside 7" tablet provides information on the city and hotel services.  There are five different meeting and event spaces with capacities ranging from 10-100 people.

Easy walking distance or a bike-ride away, you're spoilt for choice with places to visit such as the famed Gaudi design Sagrada Familia Church, Placa de Catalunya, the Ramblas, as well as excellent shopping, Picasso and Textile Museums and so much more... We explored the fascinating area of El Born, full of independent boutiques and perfect for a gastronomic walking tour to sample an array of tapas.  Catalunya is home of Vermouth, so it was fitting to try this aperitif of fortified red wine as our first experience of Barcelona.

A pre-dinner signature gin-based cocktail at the Azimuth Rooftop Terrace and Lounge at The Almanac was the perfect start to our final dinner in the hotel's Linia restaurant.  Described as a Mediterranean brasserie, the food was certainly fine dining level and superb.

With a morning sailing offered as the concluding activity in the programme, we were able to make the most of a final lunch at the Maritim Restaurant by the harbour before heading back to the airport for our homeward flight.  Even though we'd had a succession of incredible meals I couldn't wait to try the excellent Tiramisu I'd ordered for dessert...

Huge thanks to the wonderful Jo Beames for inviting me to join the group for the Spanish adventure.  The Hotel Camiral and The Hotel Almanac are just two of the fabulous hotels in the JG Collection www.jg-collection.com  All of the properties in the portfolio, from the UK, to Spain, France, Italy, Turkey, New York City and the Caribbean, share the highest levels of service, professionalism and style.

Late Summer at Parham

The tail-end of Summer always has that 'back-to-school' feel to it and the shift in seasons brings the chance to review the year's progress and focus on plans for the fresh 'term' ahead.  Making the most of such beautiful weather I visited the fabulous Parham House and Gardens, situated near Pulborough in West Sussex.  This special place has been a family home  since the building first began in 1577.  The leaflet you're given on arrival states how "Its beauty and peace have changed little over the centuries."  I think Parham has a wonderful atmosphere which supports Simon Jenkins' quote: "Nothing at Parham is superfluous, nothing unloved.  It is a house of magic".  He awarded Parham five stars, placing it in his Top 20 of "England's Thousand Best Houses".

This week, the gardens were a jewel-box of floral splendour:

The vibrant colours of all the flowers, foliage and trees really seemed to pop with the incredibly blue sky overhead.  There was the buzzing hum of insects busy about their work and a light perfume of the last of the Summer blooms filled the air.  

Visiting Parham had been a spontaneous decision and although I live just a 20-minute drive away I had not been for a few years.  Re-visiting the house was a treat and I particularly loved seeing the beautiful flowers in all the rooms.  The tradition of having an abundance of flowers from the Garden to decorate the House was originally started in the 1920's.  

I'm so pleased I took time to really savour being at Parham. It truly is an enchanting and inspiring place to be, full of wonderful stories and living history.  A place away from any hustle and an ideal location to enjoy a long moment of calm. 

Incredible India

India weaves her magic and somehow draws you back... The traditional welcome of a garland of scented flowers such as heady jasmine along with a vermilion dot placed ceremoniously on your forehead, to experiencing the skilled crafts people making jewellery, weaving and creating intricate paintings.  Each has a story to tell.  The aroma of street food being prepared from flat breads to savoury pastries, market stalls piled high with everything from colourful bangles to clothes and there are cows randomly wandering along the streets.  Their sacred status affording them right of way.  Monkeys shrieking and jumping from corrugated rooftop to the next in the tangle of alleyways that form hectic Chandri Chowk in Old Delhi.  Tuk-tuk rides not for the faint-hearted as drivers launch out into the chaos of the busy roads, although seemingly unwritten rules prevail and the heavy, noisy traffic flows as if following a complicated dance routine.  Everything seems dialled up to the maximum, with extremes of wealth and poverty.

On my recent trip to Rajasthan, I was particularly fascinated to visit Jantar Mantar in Jaipur.  This 18th Century astronomical Observatory with a huge sundial is still accurate to within two seconds. 

Hauntingly beautiful mantras sung in a deep spiritual voice at an unexpected music performance whilst exploring the impressive Mehrangarh Fort in the 'Blue City' of Jodhpur, to the signature scent aromatherapy oil exotic with frankincense perfuming the air whilst staying at the boutique Raas Haveli there and a tempting cocktail from the rooftop bar enjoying the warm evening breeze with views reminiscent of the film Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, are just a few of the special and evocative memories which have left a deep resonance to be savoured.    

Originally launched as a tourist campaign by the Government of India in 2002, the spelling as 'Incredible !ndia' still actively encapsulates the amazing experiences travelling there provides.  India has the second largest population in the world (after China) at 1.3 billion.  Rajasthan, known as the 'Land of Kings', is particularly rich in culture and heritage.  As one of the 29 Indian states, it is located in the north of the country near Pakistan.    I arrived in New Delhi, the capital of India with a population of around 20 million people and one of the most polluted cities on earth.  From leaving the airport terminal building the whole essence of India envelops you.  This was my second trip to Rajasthan and the assault on the senses was as vivid as I had encountered on my first visit eight years ago.  

As the starting point for the famed Golden Triangle route from New Delhi, my itinerary took in Agra for the iconic Taj Mahal stunning marble mausoleum completed in 1653 and one of the Seven Wonders of the World, followed by Jodhpur and then an overly long road journey (nine hours instead of the anticipated five and a half) to Jaipur known as the 'Pink City' - so called for the rose colour sandstone used in many iconic buildings (or possibly from when the city was painted pink to welcome the State visit of Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, in 1876), finishing back in New Delhi for my return flight to the UK.  

It's true that you see all of India at a train station.  Large families and groups of travellers patiently wait sitting on the concrete floor for lengthy train connections, passing the time by sleeping or sharing food, beggars ranging from young children to disabled elderly are at every turn, the acrid smells and incoherent loud tannoy announcements invariably make train travel more of an adventure than bargained for, but going by train is a chance to truly experience aspects of India otherwise missed.  We took the efficient Gatimaan Express from Delhi to Agra, meaning we could visit the Taj Mahal as a comfortable day trip with a journey time of one hour 40 minutes each way in air conditioned comfort.  I was reminded of an encounter Michael Portillo enjoyed whilst on his Indian Railway Journeys television series, when a fellow passenger had an impromptu dance in the busy carriage with him, exclaiming 'Balle Balle' which is a Punjabi expression similar to 'whoop whoop' expressing a feeling of happiness.  The smiling man shared his wonderful advice of: 'Live life laughing, no stress, no tension'.  There is above all a positivity in India that's hard not to be touched by. Balle Balle indeed.

Spirit of Sedona

Flying in to Phoenix, Arizona, from London on New Year's Eve was the start of a new American adventure and chance to visit a destination I'd wanted to explore for years.  Located a two hour drive north of Phoenix, Sedona has the reputation as a spiritual power centre which I was intrigued to experience.  An unexpected snow storm had caused havoc in a State more used to high desert temperatures, but gave a beautiful freshness and rarely seen look to the famous red rock scenery.

Starting with a couple of nights Uptown I was able to explore the central attractions by taking a trolley bus tour, including a stop at the Chapel of the Holy Cross, impressively located and built into the red rock landscape.

Sedona has a year-round population of 10,000 inhabitants, but welcomes over three million tourists a year, which understandably puts a real strain on the town's infrastructure.  Roads become clogged with slow moving traffic.  Thankfully visiting off season, I was able to enjoy relative peacefulness.  The scenery is truly stunning and the result of volcanic activity hundreds of millions of years ago, when the area was originally ocean.  Human history dates back around 4,000 BC, with the Yavapai and Apache peoples moving in to the area in 1,400AD.  The strong Native American Indian connection exists to this day, continuing the belief this is sacred land with unique vortex energies.  The many vortex sites, or energy centres, are said to support healing and meditation.  They certainly attract many hikers and visitors keen to feel the special energy of simply being here.

The effect of the vortex energy may be seen in the juniper trees as their trunks and branches react and twist to the energy instead of growing straight.

The territory of Arizona was first created in 1863 to control mineral resources during the Civil War and the first Anglo settlers arrived in Oak Creek Canyon in 1876.  It was an entrepreneurial businessman with a general store and hotel, Carl Schnebly, back in 1899 who applied to establish a post office and used his wife's name, Sedona, as the nominated place name on the application form and so the town of Sedona was born.

As a backdrop to many Hollywood Western films, with their heyday in the 1940's the area began to attract some famous names, including Lucille Ball who owned a large property pointed out as part of the trolley bus tour.  These days Sedona is a popular second home place with people keen to enjoy the great outdoors and play golf. 

When I first checked in on arriving at the Orchards Inn, I was told Sedona is an 'early to bed, early to rise type of place'.  Sure enough breakfast at the hotel was served from 6am-9pm and dinner in most restaurants was available until closing time around 8.30pm/9pm.  The majority of people seemed to dine around 5.30pm/6pm.  With such bitter cold weather, even with the occasional blue sky days, it was no hardship being indoors for a cosy evening.

The highlight of my trip was staying in Boynton Canyon and taking a hike up to the Kachina Woman rock.  This dramatic looking location was both beautiful and uplifting.  A local resident, Robert, climbs to the plateau daily in good weather (the high rock on the right side in my photo below) to play his flute from the top.  The gentle music floats in the air and sounds quite magical.

Sedona was a fabulous place to be to start the new year, both invigorating and inspiring.  Happy 2019 and wishing you wonderful travels!

Madeira in three ways

Madeira cake, Madeira wine and anticipation of Madeira the island were all on my mind as the plane made it's swift landing at Funchal Airport.  I was there for the first time to enjoy a yoga holiday and fulfil the experience of seeing some of the island, which had long been on my wish list of places to visit.

First discovered around 600 years ago by Portuguese explorers, Madeira lies off the north west coast of Africa . The economy originally grew based on the cultivation of sugar cane and the slave trade, becoming the world's greatest producer of sugar at the end of the 15th century.  Following a virus which decimated the sugar cane industry, this was followed by wine as the most important product in the 17th and 18th centuries.  Madeira gained political autonomy from Portugal in 1976.

My destination was the small, traditional village of Ponta do Sol, around 30 minutes' drive from the airport and regarded as having the best climate in Madeira.  The Estalagem Ponto do Sol is a boutique hotel with 54-rooms, all with expansive views of the Atlantic Ocean or hotel gardens.  A lift takes guests from the road level to the hotel located on the top of a cliff.

Formed as a result of volcanic activity, Madeira does not have sandy beaches, but the dark rocky coastline makes for dramatic scenery. Particularly wonderful when relaxing by a lovely infinity swimming pool...

As well as sailing, there are various dolphin and whale watching trips available to make the most of the island's location.

Whilst green, with countless terraces of banana trees, Madeira's interior is very rugged providing many challenging walks and the chance to follow the ancient levada or irrigation channels originally constructed to distribute water to the more arid areas.  There are lots of steep slopes and steps seemingly everywhere, so this really is an island ideally suited to activity holidays.  Definitely best for the fit and adventurous traveller.  

There are rewards along the way with natural wonders and incredible views.

Even though I was glad to experience the levadas, daily yoga sessions had tempted me to book the trip initially.  Our group of 10 had the use of a lovely airy and private yoga studio at the hotel.

Not for anyone inclined to vertigo, this is the view from the hotel down to the beach...

It was definitely worth the short walk down to enjoy one of the beach cafes where I'd been recommended to try the salt cod croquettes.  That was my favourite lunch of the whole trip and with a beautifully chilled glass of house white wine, the perfect indulgence.

On more level footing a look around the capital, Funchal, is definitely a must including a visit to the central market where some of Madeira's famous blooms may be seen (as well as at the renowned Botanical Gardens, reached by a cable car ride).

As for Madeira cake, this was not as we know it in England - where Madeira cake, or pound cake as it would be known in the U.S.A, is a vanilla plain cake.  In Madeira the name is 'Bolo de Mel' or honey cake, made from molasses and delicious spices, also curiously made with no eggs which ensures longer storage. That is if it lasts that long as it is certainly very moreish.  The tradition is to never cut the Bolo de Mel with a knife, just to tear off a portion instead (as metal reacts with the molasses to give an odd taste).  Whether served with a glass of Madeira or cup of tea, it is a wonderful flavour of the island.

Perhaps one aspect of a holiday to Madeira which no one really mentions is the fact the island is often buffeted by Atlantic winds, which means the airport is sometimes subject to closure and flight delays. Also the short runway is not ideal for any passengers of a nervous disposition.  Even though the island is sub-tropical, warm weather is not guaranteed.  All that aside I'm glad I made the trip and thankfully my flight home was perfectly on time.

The Distillers' Charity Auction 2018

Arriving to the wonderful sound of live bagpipe music was an uplifting welcome to The Distillers' Charity Auction at Mercers' Hall, London, on Tuesday evening.  Located in Ironmonger Lane in the heart of the City, Mercers' Hall is home to one of London's ancient livery companies and their elegant premises were the perfect venue for a black-tie event organised by the Worshipful Company of Distillers in aid of their charitable causes.  

The Worshipful Company of Distillers was founded in 1638 by Royal Charter of Charles I and there are currently over 300 Liverymen (members), mainly involved with the spirits or wine trade.  On Tuesday evening following a drinks reception with canapes, Christie's ran the highly professional as well as often amusing auction of 73 Lots from single bottles and collections, to special experiences including private distillery tours and tastings.  Gavel prices ranged from £180 to a staggering £31,000 for a highly collectable bottle of Bowmore 1964. Attended by the Lord Mayor of London the evening was a great success.  With the generosity of supporters, Lot donors and successful bidders, well over £200,000 was raised.  All of the funds will go to support The Distillers' Charity Endowment Fund, The Alcohol Education Trust and OnSide Youth Zones, via The Lord Mayor's Appeal.  

As a guest I felt privileged to be at such a unique occasion and enjoyed the fascinating insight to the world of fine and rare whisky.  A few years ago I was fortunate to visit the Macallan distillery in Speyside, on a particularly memorable trip to Scotland.  I loved the beautiful location as the natural scenery is truly stunning, plus all the culinary delights Scotland excels in from shortbread to the finest salmon.  My maternal grandmother was from Edinburgh, so perhaps there's DNA in me inspiring me to return, to further explore my heritage and have the chance to learn more about whisky, as I'm rather partial to a 'wee dram' of single malt myself...

Best of Bergen

Known as Europe's rainiest city, Bergen wouldn't appeal on it's weather record alone, but inspired by one of Paul Hollywood's City Bakes television programmes and with the chance to catch up with a dear friend over a long weekend, I went to discover the delights of Bergen for myself.  Even though the Summer season officially finished at the end of September, I was so lucky to have blue skies and sunshine for most of my stay recently in October.  Great weather was an unexpected bonus and made such a difference with sightseeing.

Just under two hours' flying time from London, Bergen is Norway's second city after Oslo and has many accolades - European City of Culture, World Heritage City and UNESCO City of Gastronomy.  The photo above shows the old town, representative of how Bergen would have looked at the end of the 1600's (there was a major fire in 1702), complete with authentic wooden alleyways where originally trade was focused on the stockfish industry.  This preserved cod from Northern Norway accounted for 80% of all exports, making Bergen a rich city as well as home to the Hanseatic League, a German trading company which operated in the North and Baltic sea regions for several centuries.

The red-timbered Bryggen Tracteursted is a historical restaurant serving traditional ingredients cooked with a contemporary twist and well worth a visit to try the specialty Prinsefisk or 'Prince Fish' steamed cod filet on asparagus, garnished with lobster, served with a white wine sauce and new potatoes.

Another favourite restaurant of mine was Lysverket located in a 1930's building housing an art museum.  Michelin Guide recommended chef Chris Hatufts serves a delicious modern take on fish soup, although I had wonderful chicken salad featuring roasted carrots and lots of fresh dill. The perfect lunch...

Bergen is also famed as being the gateway to the Fjords of Norway.  A half day cruise, complete with classical music by Grieg playing at scenic highlights was very atmospheric.  Bergen was home to the composer Edvard Grieg and his music truly reflects the landscape he loved. 

With such good weather a trip on the funicular railway 'Floibanen' was a must too, enjoying fabulous views from the top, at 320m above sea level:

Then a leisurely hour's walk back down through fern filled forest:

Followed by a slice of excellent carrot cake, lightly spiced with cinnamon and so freshly baked it was still warm, plus a restorative cup of coffee:

The neighbourhood view from our outdoor table was charming too:

A two-night stay and three full days was plenty long enough to fit in everything we wanted to do and as a city break Bergen really was a delight.  Everywhere is within easy walking distance and impressively everyone speaks English.  As a final note I must just mention a not-to-be-missed coffee shop, Godt Brot, where they bake a daily selection of boller, or seed bun.  There are 12 varieties in total, all with cardamon, using all organic ingredients and the dough is made by hand.  Definitely worth seeking out if you find yourself in Bergen (and they serve good coffee too)...